Engine Swap or Other Fix ???

Thats a good point. The EFI 300 is a slightly different block than the

Depends on why...Bearings may be shot. But it may be worthwhile checking the pump/gasket/screen etc just to be sure thats not a problem. You probably have a shot engine.

Depends on location and how much of the work you do. I don't think you are going to get a shortblock ready to assemble for $300. I think thats the best longterm solution though. Save more money...

You'll be spinning the wheel. Hope you don't land on gulag....Junkyard motors will have crapped seals, etc from sitting up half the time. Run good for a while, and turn into a smoker...Lot of work to do for a crapshoot. Even if they warranty the engine, you won't feel like doing it a 2nd time. Trust me.

Any ford truck that runs is worth $200. Buy it to drive while you are saving money to fix the 87 properly. Assuming the 87 is nice and worth fixing...When you get through, you can unload the old truck, and probably could even make a little money on the deal if you cleaned it up a bit. I went through the same thing with the same engine. I bit the bullet and got a longblock. My top end was shot too... The ready to go long block was $770 plus tax where I got it, and then all the crap I bought to install it. New clutch assembly, water pump, $45 engine stand which I gave to the guy that loaned me a hoist.., etc, etc, etc...Maybe $1300-$1400 by the time I was through. All that little stuff will nickel and dime you to death. But I've got a good running truck now. MK

|> > My 87s 300ci has a probable Collapsed lifter and Low Oil Pressure. |> >

|> > The Goal here is to get this trucking running as Cheap as possible |> ($300-400 |> > budget) and make it into a RELIABLE Winter commuter/work truck. |> >

|> > Here's my Options so far... |> >

|> > 1) Replace the bad lifter. What to do about the Oil Pressure >>

| |Depends on why...Bearings may be shot. But it may be worthwhile |checking the pump/gasket/screen etc just to be sure thats not a |problem. You probably have a shot engine. |> >

|> > 2) Rebuild the Shortblock. Cost ?? | |Depends on location and how much of the work you do. I don't think you |are going to get a shortblock ready to assemble for $300. I think |thats the best longterm solution though. Save more money... |> >

|> > 3) Install a 85k mile 300. Buy for around (~$300) | |You'll be spinning the wheel. Hope you don't land on gulag....Junkyard |motors will have crapped seals, etc from sitting up half the time. Run |good for a while, and turn into a smoker...Lot of work to do for a |crapshoot. Even if they warranty the engine, you won't feel like doing |it a 2nd time. Trust me. |> >

|> > 4) Just found a 73 F100 (parts truck) good running 302-2V, headers, C4 |> > transmission. Buy for (~$200) | |Any ford truck that runs is worth $200. Buy it to drive while you are |saving money to fix the 87 properly. Assuming the 87 is nice and worth |fixing...When you get through, you can unload the old truck, and |probably could even make a little money on the deal if you cleaned it |up a bit. I went through the same thing with the same engine. I bit |the bullet and got a longblock. My top end was shot too... The ready |to go long block was $770 plus tax where I got it, and then all the |crap I bought to install it. New clutch assembly, water pump, $45 |engine stand which I gave to the guy that loaned me a hoist.., etc, |etc, etc...Maybe $1300-$1400 by the time I was through. All that |little stuff will nickel and dime you to death. But I've got a good |running truck now. MK

Rex in Fort Worth

Good point there Rex.

Anyone know the difference(s) between the (3) 300 blocks ??

Dunno, except that where I bought my engine the first series is referred to as "press in dipstick". The 2nd series is referred to as "screw in dipstick", and then you had the last EFI 300's which I think were slightly different still. Other than that, I don't know. I'm curious if EFI gear can be mounted on an older 300 block, or if mounting taps, etc are missing.?? I probably wouldn't bother on mine, as I imagine you would need the puter, etc, etc, but a few EFI 300's are probably floating around in junkyards. I have the first series

Rule out the rebuild immediately; that's the most expensive option. I'd go for the low-mileage 300. $300 is couch money, and you might actually get a good engine out of it with less work.

I would put in a hi volume oil pump and a new lifter, amd keep driving. Happy motoring

I actually just replaced both lifters on the affected cylinder and the noise was still there. :>(

ERIC

Have you checked the oil pressure with a gauge? Make sure the oil is able to get thru the pushrods and rockers. Sometimes the seats on the rockers will gaul out and block the oil from flowing thru the hole if the pushrod sits a certain way. Make sure all rockers are showing oil flowing. Also other parts can make noises that can fool you into thinking it's the engine. IE: fuel pump noise/knock, which is semi-normal. Also watch out for flywheel bolts/problems, noises, etc. How far are you setting valve lash when you replaced the lifters? 1/2 to 1 turn past zero lash or so? Fords have those goofball non adjustable rockers...If the bolts are not fresh, they usually won't hold using "traditional" adjustment methods. They are really made to be tightened down all the way. That means the valve geometry and pushrod length must be correct. You may be setting them up with the motor off or at idle, and they might be coming loose under the first hard load. But just a guess...Is the lash still correct after it's been making the noise? MK