Gas in the PCV Valve?

On 8 Jun 2006 20:57:08 -0700, "krobinett" snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Gas smell on any component connected to the intake is common. Your problem sounds more electrical in nature than fuel although a failed fuel pressure regulator may cause an over rich operating condition and some leakage into the intake system. if you find fuel in the vacuum line at the FPR, the FPR is bad for sure. As a precaution, you should check or have checked the fuel pressure. You should also have the ECM scanned for stored fault codes. One of the most common electrical failures on that vintage is the ICM (ignition control module) on the distributor. It usually takes an iffy one a few minutes to several miles to get warm enough to start acting up. If this is it, complete failure is imminent. IOW, it's a matter of of when - not if, if that is the problem. That said, it is common for ignition coils to act like this. If you are losing or getting weak spark after it runs a few minutes, this is a candidate. If you are getting anything less than a strong blue - not orange - spark, the coil is likely weak. An orange spark will not fire most of these engines. You can get a basic spark tester at most auto parts stores for about $5. If pus comes to shove, make one from an old spark plug by opening the gap. An old 18mm plug will work fine. You need a minimum 1/4" blue spark to do the job. It can be checked for resistance as it warms up. Most service manuals for the vehicle will describe this procedure. Lastly, don't just throw parts at the thing. The problem should be diagnosed one step at a time. Otherwise, you are guaranteed to replace at least one very expensive good part which would have covered the cost of a good diagnostic scan by a competent technician.

Good luck Lugnut

Thanks for your help. I've replaced the coil and TFI Ignition Module already. I've also replaced the EGR Valve, sensor, and IAC valve... all which had great effects on the engine's idle and running.

I've read some things about a bad coolant temp sensor creating a rich mixture after running for a short time. Same for the O2 sensor. But I'm definitely testing before I replace anything more. Although, given the lifespan of the O2 sensor, I should probably replace it anyways...

I have a code reader and code 33 is the only thing that pops up. Considering the the EGR and sensor are new and both test within the normal voltage and resistance specs - its wierd. But I'll open it up this weekend to see if the running conditions have gummed it up already!

Thanks again!

Kelley

Also, there was no gas in the vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Regulator, but I still need to test the volts/resistance...

The link below may give you some ball park values for the ECT and IAT sensors. Make sure you do a wiggle test on the connectors while you watch your ohm meter. I had a Tempo a few years ago that started and ran well intil it started to warm up. It kept running richer and richer until it wouldn't idle and was hard to restart. The connector to the ECT was broken internally and the ECM never got the info that the engine was warm so it could go into close loop operation.

The codes are located at:

I know these are not F150 specific codes or sites but Ford uses common codes and pretty much common sensor values. For specific info, you will need the service manual. It looks like code 33 is for EGR not opening. This may be because of a bad EVP sensor. They sometimes go bad and will not set a code other than the 33. It is what tell the ECM where the EGR valve is positioned. This code may also be a result of a bad EGR solenoid failing to provide vaccum to the valve or a cracked/broken vacuum line in the system. You can use a vaccum guage to determine whether the vacuum is actually being supplied. Note that an EGR valve that is not opening will not cause the engine to stall or die. These conditions are related to the EGR staying open which has it's own fault code if all else is working.

Good luck

Lugnut