Inner Tie Rod Ends - How easy to replace

An update.... At a point where I'm stuck... Outer Tie Rod End and Boot are off...no problem. I can't figure out how to get two wrenchs onto the flat parts of the shaft and inner tie rod end.

There are two small flats on each side of both shafts but they are positioned so that a normal wrench doesn't fit. Both flats are right next two each other. There is only about 1/2 inch of space for two wrenches to fit. I was trying to grab the inner tie rod with a pipe wrench but the shock dampener ring is in the way and doesn't want to move either forward or backward.

So I can't get a wrench in place due to the position of the flats (no space to turn the wrench, plus 24 mm is a pretty fair size wrench. I moved the steering to try to maximize clearance, but not much luck there. The parts shop guy said it takes about two hours, (not the same model car) so perhaps there's a technique or a special tool that I'm missing.

I would like to conquer this beast myself instead of putting it back together and bringing it to a mechanic to fix..... can anyone help ???

Thanks !!!

Peter

Peter wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

i sure hope you made sure you NEEDED an inner tie rod in the first place!......anyone selling a toe end adj. for 103 bucks aint to be trusted................

I'm flying blind on this one.... a DIY'r who enjoys working on cars but isn't smart enough to do it for a living. With the axle loaded, I grab hold of the inner tie rod end moving it in and out pretty freely. The outer Tie Rod end is pretty steady. Mechanic only dinged one inner tie rod end so I tested the other side for comparision.... solid as a rock.

The factory service manual shows the use of a crowfoot wrench to remove the tie rod end. As mentioned there isn't a lot of clearance to get a wrench in place, nor is there a lot of space for two wrench to fit side by side. Is it possible a crowfoot will be able to break this loose as the spec's say 70 foot pounds of torque??? I can go ahead a order a set if necessary.

What do you think ???

Peter

I think the fact that he only called one side should tell you all you need to know about his integrity.

Here is the tool that you need: short of taking the rack right out, this is the only tool that will work.

Ian

Now why would you say this? We certainly don't sell only "toe adjusts" in our shop. It's either a 2 wheel alignment, or a 4 wheel alignment. If all it ends up needing is a toe adjust (which is the vast majority of fwd gm vehicles) what's the big deal? That's all most vehicles need.

Ian

Thanks Ian !! That looks perfect for the application .... I couldn't find anything using Google. I went ahead and ordered it (plus some other tools for the tool box),

This is kinda important to me because I've never been able to successfuly replace the inner tie rod ends before. always paid to have it done. (lack of proper tools, lack of knowledge). Getting past this project would be a confidence builder.

Thanks again for your help !!!

Peter

"shiden_kai" wrote in news:Ac7Hg.447700$iF6.301754@pd7tw2no:

i guess i just deal with a better shop.....if i replace a tie rod, inner or outer, i dont need a camber check or adj, i dont need a caster check or adj, i simply need a toe in adj.....28 bucks, even if i already have it dead on with a tape measure.........IF i replace struts, control arms, ball joints, etc. i simply need a 2 wheel alignment....59 bucks.............IF i replace rear struts, control arms, knuckles, etc. i simply need a 4 wheel alignment........79 bucks.........simply put, you make me glad i have a good independant shop that isnt trying to gouge every little job to its full potential payoff! ive only been dealing with this particular shop for

25 years so maybe their just setting me up for the big ripoff (like 103 bucks to point my tires straight....hmmmm, could be.)

1990 Olds Silhouette APV

checked...the mechanic said

He will do it for

inner tie rod end)

Should the inner tie rod ends be replaced on both sides at the

proactive measure ?? Would I expect any

be worthwhile to DIY.... I've replaced outter

the inner ones.

??? Is

itself ???

Does replacing out tie rod end easy? I have a 2001 Toyota Camry the mechanic says needs replacing. Is it dangerous to drive with it?

Thanks in advance for your reply.

James

You should ask questions about Toyotas in a Toyota newsgroup - this is a GM newsgroup. Having said that, outer tie rod ends are usually quite easy to replace. Put some tape behind the jam nut to maintain its location and remove the tie rod end from the socket in the steering knuckle. Then unscrew the tie rod end from the tie rod, careful not to loose the adjustment too much, of the jam nut. Screw on a new tie rod end, reassemble to the steering knuckle, lube as necessary and head off for a front end alignment. It should take less than 30 minutes to replace the tie rod end if you have any tools at all - nothing really special required.

Is it dangerous? Depends on how worn it is. It certainly can get expensive as it causes pre-mature tire wear. If it's worn enough you risk catastrophic failure - breakage. Alarming things happen to your steering when a tie rod end goes. Think - no steering.

I'd suggest you take your car back to your mechanic and let him replace the tie rod end for you.