OBD-II Code P1374 on a 1996 Olds Cutlass Ciera 3100 (rough idle/skip/dies)

Page 2 of 3  


You should have started with the Ignition Control Module, but hindsight is 20/20 right?
Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Steve, doesn't seem like an ign problem based on his description of the symptoms, should have some roughness/misfire even off idle, BTW, Alldata has much better code/component test procedures than Mitchell on demand. The code certainly points to something going on with the icm or wiring though.

-
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

has
code
I learned that pretty quick. I also find ALLData easier to navigate.
Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Maybe, in our travels with this vehicle thusfar the signs and advice (from local mechanics and some internet research) have both pointed to and away from the ICM.
-GV
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
gm is absolutely notorius for ICM failures!!just got a 94 cutlass that supposedly had a bad head gasket and it was THE ICM!!most kinky GM prolems are ICM or ECM(computer)and dont forget INJECTORS!!get em from the bone yard,save a buck!!good luck!!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
another thought,fuel contamination?will it run on a direct shot of spray start?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Funny you mention that because the shop around here said that the ICM rarely goes bad on these cars ;)
One thing I forgot to mention in my original post was that the car has somewhat of a hard start too, seems to take a lot more cranks than it should to start, but it does start. I've got another car with the same motor and it doesn't take anywhere near the amount of cranks this car does to start.

Well, it runs regardless once it gets started, it just runs like crap and it's not actually driveable.
-GV
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Replaced the ICM, runs a little better, still skips, still throws the 1374 code. Anybody care to take a wager on the cam sensor?
-GV
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The odds that replacing the 24x cam sensor will repair a P1374 are way too high, so I will pass on that wager.
If you got through the diagnostic chart and found that you had to replace the ICM, but it didn't fix the problem, you must have missed something. You'll have to go back through and check all 3x reference signal circuit wires and connetions as outlined in the diagnostic chart. I also notice that the coil packs should be inspected for cracks/arcing/carbon tracking/damge.
Steve

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
the ICM doesn't go bad on these cars!?!?that engine is in alota cars!!statement must be a personal opinion.ask your boneyard how many they sell!say you spend 50 on it.still cheaper then takin it to a pro.another thing.it wont show up as a check engine light fault.but if you have another car with the same motor.swap the ICM!(coilpack).if from different year check with parts store if same before effort or look at connectors.and the hard start(intermittant) on my last trouble car was the crank sensor.you changed that.has the car always been a long start!?how many miles on it!?does the timing ever jump on these engines!?i think that's what's rare!3800's are more common!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

We replaced the ICM, the car still is not running properly and the 1374 code is still present. The coilpacks all check out fine. Already replaced the crank sensor, car still starts hard. 80k miles on car. Don't know about the timing jump problem? We're looking at the possibility of a wiring problem right now, but this thing is getting closer and closer to heading to a shop for full diagnosis, it's definitely something that needs to be pinned down and is falling outside our realm of expertise.
-GV
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Oil is fine, it was just changed, thanks for the idea though.
-GV
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
well,hows it goin.got it licked yet?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Nope. Replaced the wire that was bad, the P1374 code still throws. We give up, it's going to the shop tomorrow.
-GV
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Still not solved yet. Shop found 3 bad wires (which they fixed) which also fried the computer. Replaced computer, took to dealer for reprogramming, car still acts up, bucking, stalling, cutting out, etc. Have not put it on the code scanner just yet to see if it's the exact same code or not yet. Man this problem is just a total bear...any experts out there want to take another crack at this one? Or do we just flat out have an unfixable problem here?
-GV
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Every problem has a solution.
Seems odd that you found bad wires, maybe there is more. Was one of the bad wires going to the crank sensor? Were the bad wires repaired properly? Why were there bad wires? Maybe there is an underlying issue no one is addressing.
Steve

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Not sure exactly which bad wires were fixed, the shop fixed them, they just said 3 bad wires, behind the alternator if I'm not mistaken. As far as I know the 3 bad wires were repaired properly. I'm not 100% sure why or how the wires went bad. Something about the 3 wires were rubbing and shorted out which fried the computer. Also, got a chance to scan the codes again after I got it home. P1374 code came up twice, and P0108 came up once. P0108 indicates MAP sensor, but that's already been replaced.
-GV
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Was the MAP sensor the case of the P0108?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

We replaced the MAP sensor because the p0108 code came up before. Now it's coming up with 2 P1374 codes and 1 P0108 code. It's currently back at the shop that "diagnosed" it. They are going to be eating the labor until they find out exactly what the problem is, I'm beginning to wonder if it really was the computer after all at this point.
-GV
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

So replacing the MAP didn't fix the P0108?
The first step in diagnosing a P0108 asks "Is the idle rough/unstable etc?" "If so, repair idle first before trying to diagnose P0108."
Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.