got a friend with a 98? I think? Integra. Two of the holes in the top of
the transmission (which I believe is not the original, but is from a Type-R
) where the mount bolts on are stripped out. I'm going to need to get a He
licoil kit for this and some bolts as two of the three are completely missi
Can someone please tell me the thread and length of the bolts so I can fix
this right? I'm pretty much a straight up Kraut burner guy so I haven't a
clue. Fortunately it looks like I can get a straight shot on the holes...
On Saturday, September 20, 2014 11:06:03 AM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
f the transmission (which I believe is not the original, but is from a Type
-R) where the mount bolts on are stripped out. I'm going to need to get a
Helicoil kit for this and some bolts as two of the three are completely mis
x this right? I'm pretty much a straight up Kraut burner guy so I haven't
a clue. Fortunately it looks like I can get a straight shot on the holes..
Bump...? Even if someone with a 2nd gen Integra could just take a picture
of the area for me I'd appreciate it
I don't have my old '91 Integra anymore, and this sort of info isn't in the
factory manuals. I would recommend that you obtain replacement bolts from
either the dealer or a wrecking yard.
However... My factory manual for that generation says you're supposed to
have two studs permanently in the tranny (nuts go on top of them) and one
bolt. The bolt goes in the middle hole. That you have /two/ open holes
suggests that somebody's done a mischief to the tranny.
I do have a tranny mount left over from my Integra. The design is a bit
different from yours. The one captive nut on this mount is M12 x 1.25.
If I posted a pic of what his stuff looks like now, you think you could tel
l me what's wrong? I believe he was told it was a non original trans, supp
osedly a type-r w/ LSD. It does have some ricey bits on it. I brain farte
d and forgot to pack my tap and die set so I don't have a thread gauge :(
We don't really care about originality but we do care about passing inspect
ion and also actually being safe...
Give me the number on the tranny. The number will be on a flat pad milled
into the tranny housing below the distributor, outboard of the exhaust
manifold. The engine number will be right next to it on the block. The
numbers are often faint and covered with dirt. Wipe off if needed.
You're looking for a number something like "Y80-xxxxxxx", where the X-es
Also give me the first eight characters of the car's VIN number. There is
no personal information in those characters.
On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:35:42 PM UTC-4, Tegger wrote:
On investigation the bolt/stud/whatever that is still there is also pulled
out of the trans case as well, as it is slightly loose. However there is m
aybe a 1/4" (by feel) spacer or something between the metal of the mount an
d the boss on the trans. I'm assuming that I should measure that and stack
washers to duplicate that thickness if using bolts to secure the mount to
the trans? On all three holes?
Is it also a correct assumption that those holes should have been threaded
I think I found it but it is not stamped into the trans, there was a green
metal tag there that is now removed.
I assume that this is where you wanted me to look?
Sorry about the grease, it has a typical Honda VC leak but we're working on
the actual safety issues first before addressing "cosmetics."
Thanks! should have known that you would be the guy with the answers on th
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 11:26:23 AM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
d out of the trans case as well, as it is slightly loose. However there is
maybe a 1/4" (by feel) spacer or something between the metal of the mount
and the boss on the trans. I'm assuming that I should measure that and sta
ck washers to duplicate that thickness if using bolts to secure the mount t
o the trans? On all three holes?
n metal tag there that is now removed.
on the actual safety issues first before addressing "cosmetics."
Follow up but unrelated question. Do you know where I could find stock rid
e height specs? He has coilovers and a camber kit on the rear but not on t
he front. We need to get him new tires and an alignment (the rear camber i
s way off, eating up the inside edges of his tires) but I'm not sure if wit
h the coilovers all the way up we can get by without a front camber kit or
I've been searching online, but the Integra forums are a little disappointi
ng to me technically, being used to the BMW/Porsche/VW world... question l
ike that would typically be answered in minutes...
The manual says that from the floor to the peak of the roof (the highest
point in the middle), you should see 52.6". It's kind of clunky, but that's
all they give. It would be easier if they gave ground to bottom of rocker
panel flange, but no.
Also, "ground clearance" is given as 5.9", but that's probably to the
lowest point of whatever hangs down under the car; the manual does not
clarify. Given that the subject vehicle is filled with aftermarket garbage,
that 5.9" is probably meaningless now.
I really, really, don't get this Honda obsession with aftermarket
suspension. Every single car I have ever driven with "coilovers" has ridden
and handled worse than the OE setup. Everybody and his dog thinks he's a
race-car designer, and nobody actually is. Maybe your German crowd is good
at this, but I can tell you that the kids with Hondas are clueless.
Go to a wrecking yard, pull the OE dampers off one of their cars, and
you'll be 100% better off. Your tire-wear will return to normal, plus the
ride-height will be correct as well.
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 8:45:31 PM UTC-4, Tegger wrote:
I'm used to it being spec'd center of hub to fender opening which would be
way easier... oh well
That may happen in the future but as I said in my other post the car was bo
ught as is and we're on a limited budget here (already threw about $400 in
parts at it last week to fix other glaring issues, e.g. rear brakes, CV axl
e, ball joint, exhaust, etc.) so unless parts are bad and an inspection fai
lure they're staying for the time being.
I tend to agree with you re: coilovers; I bet there are some that are great
, and a lot that are sold for "the look" and probably handle worse than sto
ck. I've driven the car in question and it does put a smile on my face; it
reminds me of my old Scirocco (which, yes, I "improved" with H&R sport spr
ings and Koni yellows, back when I was a wannabe racer yoot) which I loved
dearly. That said, I could tell after a few miles that it probably needed
softer springs or more damping for best handling; there was a definite mism
atch there. But like I said, not today...
re: wrecking yard, I only wish there was a good one near me!
That's an aftermarket mount. OE is black, not red, and OE has a lot more
substance to it..
Bolts and nuts should be snug as-is, no washer-stack needed. Where the
photo shows a bolt there should be a stud and nut. There should be 2
studs with one bolt in the middle of them.
I think this tranny has been hacked-up a bit. Or maybe a lot.
Yes. Finally found the necessary info in the Engine Removal/Installation
section. M12 x 1.25 for all. Length not given, however.
OK. Outboard of that, just outboard of the clutch actuating lever, there
is a white paper sticker with a barcode. I think I can just see that in
one of your photos. What are the first three characters? S80? Y80?
It's more likely to be the cam plug, which is the big black round thing.
Or both. Or the aluminum cam-cap. Or all three.
Oil leaks are due to installers not knowing the correct technique. Do it
right, and it will stay leak-free for years.
DC4= Integra 3-door (hatch) with B18B1 (non-VTEC)
3= manual transmission
6= LS (midrange model) with sunroof.
Valve cover on this engine will have steps up-and-down going across from
left to right above the camshafts. If the cover is flat all the way
across, then it's either the incorrect engine or the incorrect valve
I might not have all the answers, but I think I can supply some of them.
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 8:31:23 PM UTC-4, Tegger wrote:
Figured that... appears to be red polyurethane
My guess is that coming from the west coast, the car may have a JDM trans i
n it. *shrug* we don't know who did most of the "work" on this car as he
bought it as is. He at least made it across the country with it although n
ow that he's settled in we'd not only like to get it to pass its safety ins
pection but also be reasonably safe and reliable, in case he ends up not re
placing it any time soon.
As to the stud/bolt dichotomy, the one remaining fastener may very well be
a shouldered stud - I will find out later today if I can steal some more li
Awesome, that is the really crucial thing that I need to know, so I can get
the right Helicoil kit (my master kit only goes up to 10mm) so I can fix t
he holes correctly. I can get that done today and then even if I don't use
the "right" hardware I can fudge something safe with bolts and washers.
I'll try to remember to follow up with that later. He'll be disappointed i
f it's not a LSD I'm sure :/
If I do this job it'll likely be at my friend's shop where the shop foreman
is an ex-Honda dealership tech; I've actually helped him do quite a few of
these before as it appears to be a common issue. I think he usually recom
mends replacing some seals on the distributor at the same time as well.
Memory a little fuzzy; all I recall is that it is non-VTEC and DOHC. I don
't think anyone cares if it is the original engine or not at this point.
You've been very helpful, at the very least you've managed to confirm the t
hread pitch on the holes for me which is kind of mission critical, and I ap
Is the email address you give above valid? If so, I'll send you a Honda
Canada TSB that shows how to do the job properly. Just ask.
One of the keys is that all surfaces MUST be completely clean and dry of
any trace of oil.
You do not need to touch the distributor for this job, but you do need to
turn the camshaft a certain way before undoing the cam cap bolts. And I
would /strongly/ recommend a new OE valve cover gasket (and spark plug
rings) from the dealer.
This engine must be turned over /COUNTER-CLOCKWISE/ by hand using a 19mm
socket and long extensions, using the crank pulley bolt. The bolt is
accessible through a rubber plug in the inner fender liner. Turn the road
wheel all the way to the left for better access.
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 9:18:20 AM UTC-4, Tegger wrote:
gmail address is good. Is dealer gasket better than the metal core Fel-Pro Permadry? that's been my go to gasket if I don't have any specific recommendations. Dried the VC on my Jeep (4.0) right up, plus I like that it's reusable a few times.
Should have checked before: The TSB doesn't apply to your engine, provided
it's actually a '98 engine. You have the "simple" style cam plug, where all
you do is pry out the old with a screwdriver and pop in the new.
You still need to use Permatex Ultra Grey or Hondabond around the
perimeter, and make sure ALL TRACES of oil are cleaned off before the new
plug goes in.
This is a Honda, not a Jeep. Honda OE parts are almost universally better
than anything aftermarket.
Plus, what's critical here too is to make sure mating surfaces are 100% dry
of oil, and no sealant should be used except for a tiny dab of Ultra Grey
on the sharp corners around the cams. The valve cover will be tough to get
off. There is one single spot on one corner where you can pry to get the
cover off without damaging it or its mating surface. I can't remember which
corner that is, but it should be obvious when you study it.
Leaks from the valve cover itself are due to 4 things:
1) failure to make sure the gasket and mating surfaces are 100% dry of oil
2) re-use of old gasket
3) aftermarket gaskets
It can be difficult to get the head flange 100% free of oil. There's always
one spot where oil seeps onto the flange while you're working. It helps to
have the engine sit for several days before pulling the cover, so any free
oil has already dripped down..
And the valve cover nuts are tightened to 7 ft/lbs ONLY. DO NOT just
"guess" at how tight they are, use a torque wrewnch.
will do. the permatex thing sounds just like how the guy showed me to do i
t meaning he apparently knows what he's doing. i'll call dealership & pric
e gasket set from there... once the trans is fixed of course. was plannin
g on doing it today but something came up, had to take a friend to hospital
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 6:40:34 PM UTC-4, Tegger wrote:
Got it. Shouldn't be a problem, I am planning on doing this in the shop me
aning that I can run the VC through the parts washer, and I'll be scrupulou
s about cleaning off the matching flange on the head.
She's fine, thankfully, just kind of threw a wrench in my plans for yesterd
ay. I'll let you know how it works out. Maybe tomorrow? Friend with the
Integra may be helping my friend with the shop rework his network in which
case I'll go with him and screw up his car.
Newsflash: I JUST remembered why those studs have been removed.
The studs were removed because the transmission mount is impossible to
remove unless you do one of two things:
1) lower the passenger-side of the transmission by about 3", which requires
a lot of work and an engine hoist, or
2) remove the studs.
The kids that want more vibration from their engines will simply rip out
the studs so they can install those sooper-kewl urethane mounts.
On Friday, September 26, 2014 5:20:28 PM UTC-4, Tegger wrote:
Well, I got it done today... had to helicoil two of the three holes, the t
hird was only backed out not stripped. What I thought was a spacer was par
t of the mount. Apparently the hardware to install the aftermarket poly mo
unt was different than the factory stuff so the length I got from the Honda
dealer was way wrong (~55mm) so now it's got three new bolts and a whole u
gly stack of washers to make it work right. I took pics but they're on my
phone. Anyway, it's in and solid now, if not purty. No washers/spacers un
der the mount and it all fit together properly after jacking the trans up a
little, so you were right, and I thank you for your guidance (these things
are unfamilar to me, and everything's BACKWARDS!)
I also found the tag that you were referring to previously, but I didn't wr
ite down the numbers. I'll post later just because I'm curious if he's act
ually got the trans he thinks he does.
In other news, we flushed the brake fluid, troubleshot a rotatey noise from
the LF wheel (combo of missing anti rattle clips, bent dust shield, and a
rust ridge in the swept area - not sure how that happened) and got the shop
network all sorted with a new gigabit switch and some new CAT6 to replace
the CF that was there before including a 10 base T switch (really!) AAAAAAN
D the stupid 'teg won't start. Seems like a glitch in the aftermarket alar
m that the PO (poorly) installed, so I stole the shop truck to get home. G
ood times, good times!
I have a nasty feeling that we'll have to pull the battery at some point to
get this thing properly sorted which means that he'll have to drive it aro
und some more before taking it through emissions - we just replaced the dow
nstream O2 sensor last work day on it to clear the CEL. Oh well, gotta do
what you gotta do to get it right.
Finally, Lisle hand impact drivers SUCK. I broke a #3 bit last time when I
did the rear brakes on the same car, when I pulled the LF rotor today I br
oke its replacement. Should have brought my SO set to the shop but didn't
think I'd be working on brakes today :/ Sometimes the expensive tools are
worth the money!
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