Another cross posted brain picking question about sway bar bushings...

OK. So I replaced the sway bar bushings in the front last week. I liked the increase handling so much (that, plus the @$$ end felt 'saggy'.)that I replaced the rears yesterday.
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html
(middle of the page, "red" bushing set)
The Haynes manual said when replacing the bushings, to tighten the nut so that 1" of the end link was showing and lock it.
This put a LOT of 'preload' on the bushings; they are about 1/3 larger than stock, and I had to 'compress' them for a couple hours before I could get the last bushing on (I had to lock that one in a vice to compress it enough to fit...)
They are SO tight they look like little donuts.
I'm wondering if this is *TOO* much compression, to the point that any gains are lost...? The steering feel is pretty good, and conering is great...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hachiroku ハチロク wrote:

I have never had to pre-compress bushings for installation Hachi. Are you sure the assembly is correct? The links attach to the cross bar on one end and to the rear suspension arms on the other. Did they mean 1" of the cross bar and not the links?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:39:54 -0400, Ph@Boy wrote:

They meant one inch of threads showing on the rod that connects the lower control arm to the sway bar. I wasn't even able to get one inch of threads showing on the rears.
Like I said, they were about 1/3 larger (length) than the (worn) bushings that came out. The fronts were TOUGH! I had to leave them for two hours in 90 degree heat before I could get the nuts on. Without compressing them, you could only see the top of the rod through the topmost bushing.
The rears were much easier; may have been a different set.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote:

1. wtf are you doing paying any attention to what haynes say???? they're clueless idiots. 2. /any/ new bushings will feel better. 3. if you're using honda parts, the threads on the links are set so you just tighten until it stops. 4. if you used correctly designed parts, you wouldn't even be having this discussion. new oem bushings work great. if you want to feel like a "2-ner", get the mugen bushings from king motor sports. they fit and they'll never squeak.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 10:00:05 -0700, jim beam wrote:

Oooops...I forgot. People in the other groups don't know me very well (Toyota being the 'home' group...) I X-post because of the level of expertise across the groups...
This is in an '89 Mazda 626. I should have clarified that.
I currently have '85 Corolla GTS, owned for 21 years '89 Mazda 626, $100 special, runs GREAT '89 Subaru GL 3-door coupe, latest 'project' '88 Supra Non Turbo '05 Scion tC
Guess I ought to specify the car, eh?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hachiroku ハチロク wrote:

Well, you could still try Honda bushings, too...
Don't mind Jim, he's just being crotchety.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 05:52:02 +0000, Matt Ion wrote:

That's OK! I should have mentioned what car I was working with! ;)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.