02 Elantra Spark Plugs

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I would normally go to the Hyundai tech site for this, but since I've last looked, it seems to insist that I register first, and then it doesn't every
respond with the email that it promises me... COOL!
Anyway, I have a couple questions. What is the correct spark plug torque for the 2002 Elantra GT?
Second, Using a guess at the torque, I installed a new set of plugs at about 13.8 lb-ft, and the car now sputters and backfires. I put the old plugs back in, slight hesitation at idle, but not running that bad. Replace one plug, slight hint of a sputter. 2 plugs, backfires again. Old plugs back in, runs as before. I'm beginning to think that you just can't replace plugs in one of these...
The replacement plugs I'm using are Autolite Platinum AP 3924.... supposed to be the right size... what's up with this??? Could the entire set of new plugs be bad?
BTW, I have just over 60K on the plugs (yes, I'm looking at getting it to the shop for a new timing belt in the next few weeks.... )
--
- Steve



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Buy NGK plugs, you will see a Big difference....

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Blue Flash wrote:

If you don't get an initial response, use the "lost password" function and it WILL respond. That's what I had to do.

Not likely, but they could just be the wrong heat range, protrusion, etc. NGK's seem to be the most popular plugs, but you could also simply replace the originals with the same thing.
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Thanks Brian, I'll give that a try on the tech site.
As far as the plugs go, Autolites are cheaper than NGKs, and I know they make a better plug, but I would expect the "spec'd" plug to at least make it run. Just as a second look though, all the dimensions match up, so I would have expected, based on the compatibility chart, that they would be for all practical purposes the same plug, just a different name.... (Champions vs Autolite, that is). I'll go down to the parts store and cough up the $$ for real plugs.
Thanks again!
- Steve
--
- Steve

"Brian Nystrom" < snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net> wrote in message
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any hyundai dealer ive been too recommends ngk plugs only, our accent runs the best with the also.

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Yeah, I understand that.... I've been riding rice rockets for 30 years now... wouldn't put anything but NGKs or NDs in them..... my FZ1 has NGKs in it..... but cars typically aren't quite as finicky. The Fizzer is my baby, the car is mostly just my work car. However, my problem wasn't that they didn't last as long or my mileage wasn't as good, or maybe the overall acceleration wasn't too good.
The car continuously sputtered and backfired.... i.e., for all intensive purposes, it wouldn't run AT ALL..... It simply wasn't driveable.... That's what amazed me!
--
- Steve

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Blue Flash wrote:

Au contraire, NGK makes very good plugs. They're spec'd as OEM parts on most asian vehicles for a reason. Their standard V-Power copper plugs are inexpensive (~$1.25 each) and offer outstanding performance within their lifespan (~15-30K miles) or you can go with platinum or iridium plugs if you want longer life with good performance.

I agree, but that's apparently not the case.
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Hence, my question wasn't "what's a good plug." Though my experience with Champions vs NGKs in my old 2 stroke bikes, I'd say the NGK will last around 5 to 10 times longer. Significant difference there. I am intimately familiar with NGKs. However, I thought about plugs when I wasn't at my local NGK retailer, so I bought a "like-in-kind" replacement for the originally spec'd plugs.
My question was what's up with this? I change out a comparable plug with the corresponding "equal," and it doesn't run at all. If they just didn't last as long, or if my dyno tests showed a 0.005 hp loss, ok... backfires and sputtering is a different deal completely, if you follow me there. My car didn't come with NGKs, it came with Champion platinums. Apparently NGKs weren't spec'd for it.
As far as price goes, NGKs ARE more expensive. However, I'm not such a tightwad that I can't spend an extra .50 to $1per plug... that's not the issue. You won't find NGKs around here for 1..25, even the copper cores.... The issue IS that the Autolites were the corresponding plug, and supposedly of comparable quality to the originals.... and for all intensive purposes, it won't RUN AT ALL with the new plugs (yes, I gapped them to spec also). Higher performance is irrelevant. ZERO performance is a problem. I was just inquiring to see if anybody had experienced the same situation, or had an idea what was going on.... kind of a learning thing. I think the answer is "No."
By the way, I tried the "forgot password" on the tech site and finally got in... Thanks!
--
- Steve

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try bosch platniums, thats whats in our accent right now. seems good , been over 30 000 kms already on them. same as you, just werent near a ngk supplier.. when time comes to replace Im going to use the ngks, do u have any idea what the irridium's are like? apparentely irridium is from meterorites..

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For all the bikes I've had (9), all of them ran on NGKs.... and they seemed to work really well. I've used NDs as well, and never really could tell a difference between them and NGKs. Back in the early 70s when it was 400hp V8s, I had just as good of luck with Champions as anything else. I'm not sure what my new bike runs, but I know they're NGKs. The current plugs in the Hyundai are Champions, and have 60K miles on em. they're pretty burnt, but I've only recently seen a drop of a couple mpg .... which is why I'm replacing them. the electrodes are getting pretty round... they've run their course.
The iridiums might work a little better for you, but I'd be surprised if you really noticed a difference. On my old bikes, I could never tell the difference in how a bike ran, and never really could see a difference in mileage. For the two strokes, though, the Champions fouled a lot easier, and wouldn't last anywhere near as long as an NGK.... That was the big difference. If the plugs you're using right now are working well for you, I'd stick with them. They're good plugs. You might try the Iridiums and see if they last longer... but it sounds like you've got a pretty good plug as it is...
On the other hand, there's the old engineering saying.... It it ain't broke, it just doesn't have enough features yet! :-)
--
- Steve

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The advantage of platinum or iridium plugs is longer life (~60K and 100K, respectively). NGKs copper core plugs actually perform better, but they have a much shorter life. Even if you replace them every 15K, they're still cheaper in the long run than either of the higher-end plugs.
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yeah was aware of that, platnium lasts longer but doesnt conduct electricity as well ...

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yeah I believe in the if it aint broke don't fix it. the only reason ive told you about the ngk's is even on the Hyundai connection (or what used to be) the techs mech said to ditch the stock champions (and my dealer), unt makes me think then if there no good or good for only short times. Hyundai's using the champs because there cheaper I guess, just like the shitty tires they come with.
I've had good luck so far with the bosch. I figured how bad could the bosch's be considering the entire management systems by bosch, even the speed sensor on the shock tower say bosch on it.

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Hey! You hit a hot button there!
With the Michelins, everytime I tried to take off on wet pavement, they broke loose like they were on ice... I hated them. Replaced them with Pirelli P3000s.... about 1/2 the price and they stick like glue on the wet roads... love em! Although the tire cupping problem with the Elantras gets attributed a lot to the tires, I ran these same Michelins on a Saturn (2 sets) for a total of about 145,000 miles (got 205K out of the Saturn). NO cupping. I still think its a design flaw in the car, but we'll see how the Pirellis wear.... The Michelins still sucked on wet roads, though.
On the spark plug side, though, the Champions should be fine. Mine went a long way. Yes, NGK makes a better product, but then again, will they run over 50K miles? I don't know... but I guess I'll find out. You can get Champions and Autolites at Wally World as an afterthought (like I did) when you're actually shopping for paper towels or something really lame.... around here, if you want NGKs, it's a special trip to the parts store.... but I'll be making the special trip. At least I'll know what I'm getting... not sure what I got with the Autolites, but it's not good....
--
- Steve

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the tires on our accent cost 19.99 each from walmart, uylsses kh made by kumho. thyre actually pretty good tires, grip well in snow and wet but they do tend to how easily around corners ( so did the tiger paws on if before these) just the small size 155 80r13 after first snow i switch the the blizzaks but i dont care for the high speed handling of them, very squirmy ..

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I looked at some Kuhmos, but all I read was that, although they sounded like a good tire, they wore out pretty quickly. I'm not into buying tires often, and the Pirellis are supposed to last like the Michellins. I got 90K out of the first set of Michelins on the Saturn, and sold it with good tires.... the second set still going strong.
The Pirellis only have about 5K on them now, but they still look like new. The dry handling on the Pirellis is a little bit less sharp.... has a slight soft feel compared to the Michellins, but they're pretty good. When it's wet though, there's no comparison. Michellins were about $120/tire, the Pirellis were about $60. I expect to get 60K + out of them if the car doesn't eat them like the others...
--
- Steve

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What "cupping problem? This is the first I've heard of any generic problem with tires on the Elantra. If your tires are cupping, you've got an alignment problem that needs to be addressed. Have you had a four wheel alignment done by a qualified shop?
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I'd say start a post on the cupping problem.... I've never met an Elantra owner that DIDN'T have a problem with it. The dealers apparently all have a consensus that it's because the tires aren't rotated often enough... Put 95000 miles on a set of MX4s on my Saturn with ONE rotation.... Running about 1000 to 1500 miles a week as a consultant...
The Michellins were ruined in less than 40K on the Elantra... but I kept them rotated. The dealers insist it is properly aligned. Insist there is no problem. I started having problems and found this group and had A LOT of company...... start a post with a title like "Michellin Tire cupping on Elantra".... you'll be amazed at the responses you get. You must be new here, right?
Thanks for all the great answers, but maybe you really should get some info first...
--
- Steve

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Blue Flash wrote:

I've been here for over a year and don't recall seeing anything about tire cupping in that time. I haven't seen anything on other Elantra sites, either. People do complain about wearing the Michelins out quickly, but that's all I've seen.
What are you running for tire pressures? The recommended front tire pressure (30 psi) is way too low for the load they handle. The general consensus seems to be that running the tires at ~36/32 front/rear is the way to go. It improves the handling substantially and results in much more even tire wear. Installing a Tiburon rear sway bar dramatically improves the handling with much flatter cornering and also helps to even out the tire wear.
So far, I've seen no evidence of cupping on my Michelins, but I've only got ~12-14K miles on them. They get rotated once a year when I take the snow tires/wheels off in the spring and put the stock wheels and tires back on. I'm on my second summer with them now.
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Ditto. Never heard of cupping problems and been reading this group since Jan 04. Going to have my GT serviced in the next few weeks, and will ask about cupping/even wear at that time. I've had my GT since Jan 04, and have around 22k miles on it. IIRC the tires have been rotated twice, and as of the last inspection were wearing fairly evenly.
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