Any recommendations for a electronic trailer brake controller?

Any lessons learned out there for a Trooper owner contemplating putting a brake controller on the unit so I can pull a trailer with dual axles?

I've looked at several, but it looks like I'll have to run a 12volt line from the controller back to the trailer hitch, unless someone can tell me that Isuzu thought far enough into the future to run that line back there and hide it in the harness somewhere, waiting only for me to pull it out.....

Any recommendations on a controller? thanks, Steve

Reply to
SPR
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How heavy (and long) a trailer? As much as I like my Trooper, it would not be my choice for a tow vehicle. It's short, tall, light, and a trailer could easily wag it. You really want a long, heavy vehicle.

As for a brake controller, I like the various roadmaster products ; I don't know if they make something to suit your needs.

And yes, typically you need to run wiring specially for the controller, since the controller sits under the dash of the tow vehicle.

--Kamus

Reply to
Kamus of Kadizhar

Reply to
Miles

Yep...got a few...done it twice now. :-) First time on a 94, second time on a 2002. Yes, you will have to run a 12-volt line back to the back. What I've done that works well is to hide it under the trim at the floor along the drivers side of the vehicle. You'll need to make sure you have a heavy enough gauge wire as recommended by the manual of whatever brake controller you buy. Isuzu was nice enough to include a plug for everything else, but not for the brake controller...but not a big deal.

As for a controller, I'm sure there are lots of nice ones out there. What I ended up getting was the Draw-Tite "Activator" mainly due to its small size. Go to

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and dig around till you find it. It's also sold under other names - I've got one just like it that's a Reese Brakeman compact or something like that. In the 94 Trooper, I removed the ash tray and mounted it in that hole. In the 2002 it wasn't as easy, but I still managed to make it fit in place of the stock ash tray. If you have the newer styled dash and would like, let me know and I'll dig up my directions I posted here once before about how to take out the ash tray and make it fit.

I've got an 18' travel trailer that I tow with our Troopers and it handles it just fine...in fact I think something is wrong with its brakes as they don't seem to kick in much if at all - so I'm stopping 2400lbs with the Trooper's brakes only (as far as I can tell) and it doesn't do all that bad. I'm definitely going to get it fixed though! The 94 struggles a bit towing it (not bad, but you can tell it's back there) and the 2002 tows it so nicely that after a few hours on the road you can almost forget it's behind you!

Good luck!

Wesley

Reply to
Wesley

I didn't see my post make it out to the whole group...so I'll send it again just in case it didn't go thru...

Wesley

Reply to
Wesley

Wesley, thanks loads. I'll do that. Sorry for the delay in responding - my wife made me a DAD just before Fathers' Day! mom and baby are doing fine.... r/ Steve

Reply to
SPR

No problem, just got around to checking in here myself...congratulations!!

Wesley

Reply to
Wesley

Wesley, I found your post while searching for some information about installing a

7-pin trailer harness to my 2002 Rodeo. I've already got a flat four for my utility trailer but now need a 7-pin for my travel trailer.

I did buy a harness kit from e-trailer.com and I'm sure I can hook it up but was wondering if there are any pre-run connections for the brake controller and/or the rear wires. You mentioned that the only thing missing from the rear connections was the required +12v.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Nick

P.S. I installed a set of the Air-Lift air springs with a pump to keep the Rodeo level with heavy utility trailer loads - great setup.

Reply to
stokester

Nick,

In the Trooper (which is what I've set up 2 of) there is no 12v constant line or brake controller wire run to the back, only the standard tail light connections. You should only need to run a wire to the back for the brakes. If you want to while you're at it (and probably not a bad idea), you can also run a line straight from the battery postive. That will help keep your trailer's on-board 12v battery charged up while on the road. One thing I would recommend for the 12v constant is to put a switch under the hood so you can turn it off when not needed. I've seen such a wire corrode completely apart near the back of a vehicle from years of having constant power there (water and salt from winter roads probably didn't help at all). The only other connection the 7-pin adds is for back-up lights. I wouldn't bother unless your trailer has them - and I've only ever seen one that does (a 1971 Terry travel trailer). Since you have a trailer that uses the

4-flat, probably the best bet for the vehicle jack (if you haven't already done some looking) is to buy one that has both the 4-flat and 7-round jacks all in one unit.

Good luck! If you have any other questions, let me know and I'll do what I can to help...

Wesley

Reply to
Wesley

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