Evening
The weels on my 1990 90 lock up now under normal braking - they never used to....
What can i check? The shoes look quite new, and the adjuster is in as far as it will go.
Where do i start?
Mark
9090Evening
The weels on my 1990 90 lock up now under normal braking - they never used to....
What can i check? The shoes look quite new, and the adjuster is in as far as it will go.
Where do i start?
Mark
9090
With the basics - check that they shoes are actually adjusted correctly, check for siezed wheel cylinders, and contamination of the lining material (with oil and/or brake fluid). After that check for inefficient front braking (ie siezed calipers). If everything appears to be working correctly then you could chamfer the leading edges of the shoes.
I'll wager a beer on the fact you've got a partially siezed wheel cylinder though. ;-)
I dont think its a siezed calper on the front, as it stop well and does not pull. Plus the pads are evenly wearing.
Ive checked that the pistons on the rear all move OK, and that the shoes and drums on the back are clean.
I read about a Rear Pressure valve? Could this be Fubar?
Mark
9090
If you can rule out everything else, then the compensator is a definate possibility, but it's also definately the last thing to consider.
Richard
Had another look this morning - The front pads are lowish, I can see about
1cm of each pison. Could it be that the fronts are too low?I'm going to change the pads tonight to see if it makes any difference.
mark
9090On or around Wed, 08 Feb 2006 08:36:03 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:
The brakes on the back of the minibus do this on damp mornings until you've used them a bit and warmed 'em up. I suspect some kind of contamination of the brake shoes, but they want an arm and a leg for new ones. There's nothing wrong with 'em mechanically, AFAICS. When I first got it it did this all the time, which was due to an improperly adjusted load compensation valve on the back axle. There's a chart to translate unladen rear axle weight to a setting dimension - it was set considerably off the end of the chart! Adjusting it slightly more sensibly made it much less prone to skid embarrassingly every time you came up to a junction.
I know it's a pain but you could always fit a classic Range Rover rear axle then you have disc brakes all round...
Regards
Brian Tonks Tonks4x4
27-29 Main Street Huthwaite Sutton-In-Ashfield Nottinghamshire NG17 2LD 01623 452885Brian Tonks uttered summat worrerz funny about:
I'd sort the front first, poor braking efficiency on the front may be masking the problem , the rears could be fine, doing their job. As you get used to the poorness it just feels "normal". I'd guess once the front pads are replaced you should wear a hard hat and chin guard for the first couple of brake applications ;-)
Lee
Whats involved in fitting a disc braked rear axle to a 90 ?
Richard
On Thu, 09 Feb 2006 14:59:49 GMT, "Richard" scribbled the following nonsense:
Disconnect rear prop. Disconnect flexible brake line and plug to prevent fluid loss Disconnect axle breather Disconnect any wiring for pad sensors Disconnect a frame balljoint from axle Remove dampers from vehicle Remove springs Remove trailing arm to axle bolts Lift rear of vehicle and roll axle backwards from under it.
Refitting is a reversal of the above ;-)
Did this last year to a friends Disco which for some reason had been fitted with a drum back axle.......
Found that fitting a set of 6.00x16 tyres and rims and letting nearly all the air out made removal simpler as you can still roll the axle around easily and away from under the body. With no wheels they are bloody awful things to move!
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