Epoxy Adhesive.

erm, Araldite, any shed. Mind you there are more types and formulations of epoxy than you can shake a stick at...

In message , Rory Manton writes

Don't know about this, but my 2.5 ton yacht is glued together and coated with West or SP Systems epoxy resin from any good boat chandlers near you. SP systems seems less visible nowadays. It is now 20 years since we built it. Didn't fall apart in the strong breeze on Sunday. For a boat, you mix the basic epoxy and then add fillers (colloidal silica to stiffen it and milled wood fibres to give it body). It's fine as long as it is covered by paint as light degrades it.

I've glued bits of car together with it sometimes with fibreglass cloth, but don't really know enough to recommend it for that.

I saw on An MG is Born Mr Evens using a two part epoxy to glue bits onto the vehicle. Now I understand that it is not for structural type repairs but I could use it to add backing pieces to some of the rips and holes on my Srs11 tub prior to filling and repainting.

Does anybody know the name of the stuff and where I could get hold of some?

Thanks all. Rory Manton

Oh gods, why me?

On or around Mon, 15 Aug 2005 21:43:58 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice" enlightened us thusly:

I quite like JB Weld "Epoxy Steel" meself. JB Kwik is the fast version. The slow on has some fairly impressive stats for tensile strength etc. Though not as strong as steel, mind. Used it before now to patch small holes in petrol tanks - just smeared over the outside and it seemed to last long-term.

so Austin Shackles was, like...

JB Weld highly recommended. Used it to build up a corroded prop on a boat until a new one could be found. You can grind and drill it like metal once it's cured.

There's so many varieties, but some military aircraft have the _wings_ glued on. They do have some rivets at each end of the seam to stop the joint peeling apart, like pulling off a sticking plaster.

Surface preparation matters a lot, as with any glue or paint.

On or around Tue, 16 Aug 2005 06:49:11 +0100, "Richard Brookman" enlightened us thusly:

Although it takes longer than you might think to get really hard, even the fast one. Sets in about 10 minutes, but is not to full strength for at least 6 hours, and 12-24 is better, and that's the quick one. 24 hours minimum for the slow one.

Graeme

Yeah well it is epoxy resin and fibreglass matting that is holding my footwells together and doing a good enough job for me not to worry about it.

This Penloc glue is good stuff. I use it on lifts.....not the importent bits but the bits of steel protecting a marble lift enterence. So far it's put up with roughly 4 years worth of puchchairs, trlooys banging into it. It's so strong that if you hit the steel angle hard enough, the marble breaks before the glue!!.

Dom J

Lifts concern me almost as much as calling the AA out at 70000 feet to change a fan belt (I'm not hot on flying either!).........

Any lift engineers , please please please use bolts!

I've often wondered what would meet what first.. ankles to knees or knees to arse. Bit of a Chicken and Omlet question really.

;-)

Lee D

On or around Wed, 17 Aug 2005 00:44:50 +0100, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:

which can shear, or work loose...

I've never found it too profitable to speculate about such matters.