timing belt 2.5 n\a

Next job on my list is the timing belt on my 2.5 n/a diesel. I've read through the have read the haynes and the LR workshop manual and it looks ruddy complicated but I think I could follow it once actually there and working.

Questions: Aside from a new timing belt do I need new anything else such as gaskets?

Are there any pain-in-the-arse bits that the books don't tell you, like a real bitch of a bolt at any point?

Do I need to go and buy some pullers?

What do I need to set the timing marks? is it a case of lining up marks or do I need pins to lock xy and z bits?

Will the process mean draining the coolant (not a problem as I need to do that anyway)?

Including tea brakes, bandaging hands, and swearing time, can this be done in a day for a home-mechanic? (you know my abilities to date, clutch master replacement recently, and brake overhaul, did a head gasket years ago too).

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.
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Can't remember exactly, but if you have to take it off (like the water pump I think) then you will need a new gasket to put it back on.

If you have removed the cooling fan shroud, there is plenty of room to work. No real problems. The bolts holding on the timing cover are all of different lengths, so make sure you keep them in order when you dismantle.

Probably, but look on them as an investment - you'll need them again, for sure. Don't buy cheap.

Two pins, one to lock the flywheel and one for the injector pump. I didn't use either, for reasons I can't remember. I was just VERY careful not to disturb the sprockets when the belt came off and went on. All OK afterwards, although I might have got away with this undeservedly.

Yes.

Unless you encounter problems, you should do it in a day easily, probably half a day if it goes smoothly. Don't forget you will need an old-fashioned torque wrench to set the belt tensioner (the type with the long pointer and scale, NOT the click type). If you don't have one anyway, get one. More uses than a very useful thing. And do the tensioning procedure exactly as in the book - basically you set the tension twice, turning the engine once in between. I am told that failure to do this bit properly is the main cause of later failure. This bit is tricky, but not impossibly so. Just needs patience (and three hands).

If you're sensible, have the right tools and can read, you should accomplish this OK. Best of luck! Usual caveats apply - this advice is worth exactly what you paid for it. ;-)

Rich

RR 4.6 V8 trialler (WAS a 2.5 n/a diesel!) Series 2a Other gubbins

Reply to
Richard Brookman

it isnt too bad to do .

you need an inch/lbs torque wrench with 3/8 sq drive [machine mart @ £10 approx ] .

need to either make up a flywheel lock pin or look at

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and buy theyre puller kit @ £99 which includes everything you need to pull off harmonic balancer and all pins to lock flywheel etc .

this kit does all landrover n/a 200tdi and 300tdi engines .

you need a water pump gasket at least and possibly a timing cover gasket also .

timing belt can be a little fiddly to get on and be carefull you dont "lose" it over the cam pulley as it takes some time to remove it again as there is only a 8mm gap between it and the casing .

watch carefully the injector pump pulley stays in position and dont let it rotate inadvertently by you moving it and losing its position .

harmonic pulley bolt can be tight, mechanics use an air impact wrench to remove these but a 3/4" drive socket set and decent knock with lump hammer should loosen bolt .

Reply to
M0bcg

I've read everybody elses replys, and they dont sound much like when i did mine! Ive seen mentions of harmonic balancers and locking pins and i dont recall either of them. Either my engine is different or one of us is thinking of the wrong things. I thought that it was a fairly simple procedure to do. Fair few bits and it sounds daunting but it is all pretty obvious

Water pump gasket. Maybe the thermostat/housing ones. When i went to get the gasket for my waterpump i was told there was either 7 bolt or

9 bolt water pumps, so count your bolts first to ensure you get the right one (I didnt!).

I dont have any pullers, or know of why youd need em? The only thing that is hard to get off is the main pulley, but a big lever/hammer will sort that out.

Mine was all marks. Each turny bit had an obvious mark on it (or hole/cast pointer) which lines up with obvious marks on the engine behind it.

Yes, as the water pump has to come off

Yes. Might be a long day, but you should be able to do it.

good luck!

Reply to
Tom Woods

there are marks to line up on the timing belt pulleys/gears .

the water pump has to be removed as it is part of the timing cover and you need to remove all bolts securing timing cover .

you have to fit a pin in through a hole in the bellhousing that locks the flywheel in place ,once you line the slot up, if i remember hole is on top of the bellhousing directly behind the cylinder block. this also requires using the timing cover drain plug with a 5mm ? hole drilled in its centre so you can drop pin thru . .

the "harmonic balancer " IS the front pulley and not all of them come off in youre hands .

definately need a torque wrench to pre load timing belt .

Reply to
M0bcg

Twas 22 Oct 2004 17:34:44 GMT when snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (M0bcg) put finger to keyboard producing:

okie dokie

I have a spare flywheel drain plug, is that the same size?

Got one of those, the book says to rotate the crank 180 degrees then re-torque the tensioner. odd but okie dokie..

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

On or around 22 Oct 2004 17:34:44 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (M0bcg) enlightened us thusly:

bloody TDi one is underneath, you use the drain hole and it's a pain in the arse, pin keeps dropping out.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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