Bleeding brakes

When the garage changed my brake fluid they used different coloured stuff so it could be seen when the new had come though.

It's easy to break a bleed nipple off if you are ham-fisted. Don't use an open-ended spanner on them, use a suitable socket, and keep it straight.

I'm assuming 'bubble' for bible; I can't help otherwise as I am a confirmed atheist ;-)

There should be no bubbles. That would mean air is in the system, and that shouldn't be the case if the brakes are working OK.

There are two key points about the Eezibleed. Firstly, only use a tyre pressure of 10 - 15 psi. Secondly, make certain that the cap is fitted securely, otherwise you will end up spraying brake fluid everywhere.

If you are using an Eezibleed, you don't need to put the end of the bleed hose in a jar of fluid. In fact, if you don't mind the mess, you don't need a jar at all. Or a hose, really.

Tradition dictates doing the furthest from the master cylinder, then work towards it, but as there should be no air in your system it won't really matter.

The Eazibleed works well *if* you follow the instructions.

No bleed nipple on the M/C.

Software?

The essential point with ABS is not to let the fluid run out. Keep the reservoir full. If you get air in it, you may well have a problem.

Yep, that's how I do it.

Reckon on a litre of fluid at least.

See above info.

Yes, bleed the clutch as well.

If you have read what Mr Haynes says about this, tear the page out of the manual and throw it away. He would have you dismantling half the stuff under the bonnet at get to the bleed nipple. It is actually easily accessed from below.

Best approach with brakes, I have always found.

Only the nipple on the calliper you are working on.

I like to use a brake hose clamp in the flexy so that no fluid can push up to the M/C. Usually, it's not necessary to bleed the brakes afterwards if you do this

Welcome.

Chris

It really is not worth doing it yourself, Fords only charge 30 quid to do the complete job.

Just make sure the special lid is correctly screwed on and sealed - and that all the pipes are properly in place before connecting up the tyre. Which should have its pressure reduced to no more than 20 psi. If you have any leaks the fluid goes everywhere under pressure.

Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. End with the one closest.

I always bleed the calipers/push a bit of fluid through after a pad change, though I've never really noticed any bubbles. I can see why there would be any air introduced anyway in a simple pad change. My thinking is that it at least gives the nipples a bit of a work out preventing them seizing and also gets a bit of fresh fluid through.

I usually use the old fashioned 2person "down...hold.....up" method and give it 4-5 down and ups on each side.

Tom

When I did my 03 Focus fluid change, I found that the fluid flow from the rear offside corner extremely slow. Slower than any other car I've done.

I find it best to use a ring spanner for the bleed nipple as the hose could stay on the nipple as it was loosened and tightened again, catching the old fluid in a large old coffee jar.

The nipples were different sizes front (discs) to rear (drums).

David

More usual problem is ending up with rounding. Worth spraying nipples with penetrating oil the day before, especially on older vehicles.

It is if you are using the conventional 'tube and jar' method, but with an Eezibleed you don't even need the tube.

I have a 1/4" drive socket set with a deep socket that is ideal for the job.

Chris

No hose needed for pressure bleeding however.

Chris

So, how would you suggest collecting the old fluid so it doesn't make a mess ??

David

My easibleed came with a tube and jar, also saves fluid getting everywhere

Mine did too.

But I do not put the new fluid into the Eezibleed container as I have found it easier and cleaner to fill directly into the master cylinder reservoir, and watching the level. Therefore no cleaning of the Eezibleed container required afterwards, and if the lid connection leaks, just air is lost, not fluid.

David

What do you want to collect it for? Quick squirt of the hosepipe and it's gone ;-)

Chris

Oh, I don't know, maybe proper disposal...

Quick squirt of the hosepipe and it's

Now I have an unrequested water meter :-( , it's too valuable to waste.

David

Two or three litres of water would cost less than the two or three litres of fuel needed to take the fluid to the tip!

In all seriousness, I don't squirt brake fluid everywhere; my suggestion in using a socket was aimed at initial loosening, after which any suitable spanner can be used.

Chris

brake fluid is a good weed killer, and relatively harmless in general.

Didn't know that; I'm going to give it a try.

and relatively harmless in general.

Unless you are a weed, presumably.

Chris

I wouldn't go to the tip with just that :-), and the tip is 2 miles away, BTW.

OK, especially when using a sliding T bar to centre it.

David