source of plastic rivets

Hello,

I need something like these:

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The original ones had small plastic screws in, which made removal a little easier. Is ebay as good a place as any for things like these or can anyone recommend a good online supplier?

I've noticed that if I lose a nut or bolt, the dealers can be very expensive, charging a pound per bolt. Is there somewhere to get automotive screws, bolts, etc. from cheaply? I think half the problem is knowing the official name for a "torx headed screw with 14 tpi,

40mm long" (that's just a made up example, but you get the idea).

Thanks, Stephen.

Reply to
Stephen
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Screwfix are pretty good for ordinary bolts, I use beal.co.uk for plastic clips, they have a good range and a very nice catalogue.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Halfords had them last time I looked. You can unscrew the centre bit to remove - but just push it in when fitting.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Called push rivets, several sizes available from beal

Reply to
MrCheerful

But UK supplied nuts and bolts tend to have the wrong head size. Jap 6mm

10mm hex, UK 6mm 11mm hex, 7mm Jap 12mm hex, UK 13mm hex, 8mm Jap 14mm hex, UK 15mm hex. It's really annoying when you have to swap spanner / socket for that last nut / bolt.

Many Japanese automotive nuts and bolts have the washer forged integral with the head. Some nuts have the washer loosely swagged on.

As for motorcycles, many outer casing bolts will be M6 but the head 8mm hex.

Reply to
Peter Hill

Many bolts used on a car can be specific for that job. The obvious one being cylinder head etc ones. For that sort of thing I'd get one from the maker, etc.

If it's just a GP nut and bolt - on say on an exhaust - anything that fits will likely do.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The old days of preferred head sizes have long gone. And it is annoying when just one of the bolts has a different head size, but few things need regular dismantling nowadays. When I ran a Japanese motorcycle shop I used to stock all the built in washer bolts and special nuts, they were really good sellers.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Everything is so visible on a bike that its either replace the 1 or 2 chewed up OEM bolts or do the whole lot with hex socket cap screws. Back when case screws were made from cross head cheese it was a no brainer.

Reply to
Peter Hill

The problem was not actually the screws themselves, we had no problem in the workshops, there was a trick to undoing them, which very few people, even in the trade, cottoned onto. You had to hit them first with a drift, then use a number three Philips (not pozi) Tee handled screwdriver. If they were previously untouched (ie not damaged), they always undid just fine.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Big snag with cross head screws - especially from abroad. Could never be sure which type they were. True Phillips is horrid - cams out too easily.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I try to always use 'anti-cam out' bits, the Snap on ones with ribs are really good, the diamond faced ones are next. There are wide variations in the actual dimensions and depths of the screw heads and bits and it is worthwhile trying several different makes of bit which are supposedly the same (ie pozi 2 for example) until you find the perfect fit for that screw.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Yes. If only there was one standard worldwide - in different sizes obviously.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes

From my experiences, there are essentially three main types of cross-head.

  1. European (?) Phillips. The flutes are tapered, and you must use the correct size of screwdriver. As you twist the screwdriver, it tends to get pushed out of the head.
  2. American Phillips. The flutes are deeper and parallel-sided, and a wider range of screwdriver sizes fit fairly snugly. As you twist the screwdriver, it doesn't tend to get pushed out of the head.
  3. Pozidriv/Superdriv. Very similar to the American Phillips, except that you have to use the correct size of screwdriver. It can be immediately distinguished from both the Phillips by the additional small marks that bisect the 90 degree angles of the flutes.

I think that the American Phillips is the oldest - and arguably the best. If it IS the oldest, heaven knows why the European Phillips was ever invented, as it is the worst of the three. I believe that the Pozidriv was invented as an improved version. The correct size of Pozidriv screwdriver (#2?) mates pretty well with American Phillips.

I'm sure that a bit of Googling will reveal the true facts.

Reply to
Ian Jackson
[..]

You were in the right direction, but missed the Japanese standard:

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One of the reasons Japanese cross-head screws chew up so easily is that the correct driver is largely unavailable in Europe. (The other being the soft material they are made from, of course.)

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Also ISO?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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