Injectors for '81 380SL

My long time mechanic tells me that I have a wide open #6 injector which is causing my rough running and lots of gas smelling blue smoke. He doesn't do them but recommended another shop to either replace or
rebuild. He couldn't provide me with a solid quote but maybe around $1000.
Please oh mighty knowledgeable list, what is a good $ estimate for 1)rebuilding and 2)replacing? With 118K on the clock, and 80psi compression on #6, should I do just the one or all of them? The car is in great shape otherwise. Rebuild or replace? Is this a doable repair for a shade tree mechanic? What other things for them to look for while they are in there?
Thanks, any info is accepted.
Chip
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Roland is correct, but wait: 1k to replace one fuel injector? Buy a new set at autohausaz, for instance, it costs 20 bucks each + U$ 5.0 insulators and seals made by Bosch, it's a DIY job and takes 1/2 hour to get it done. HTH,
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The good news is that the offender is known, #6. I'd replace only that one and see if the problem is cured - it most likely will be. The #6 spark plug must be fouled and also ought to be at least cleaned if not replaced. The low compression in #6 is troublesome - probably worn rings from no oil on the cylinder walls due to too much gas flooding the cylinder.
Do an internet search there are numerous companies that clean and calibrate gas fuel injectors for about $20 each but know that not every injector is rebuildable, some are too far gone and must be replaced.
Suggest you go to www.autohausaz.com and see what injector they can sell you. Good company.
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380 engine use fuel distributor... there is no individual electronic fuel injector... but rather like ignition system... use a distributor. When these fuel distributor go bad, one or two cylinders may get no fuel or too much fuel as in a massive leak.
The only way to fix this is rebuilt fuel distributor that will cost about $450... or you can get them used. Considering how old these cars are... it is a gamble. Like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-107-126-8-cyl-Bosch-Fuel-Distributor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33553QQihZ018QQitemZ280230686924QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Now, as for you #6 cylinder. that is bad, you need 100PSI in order to burn fuel properly and pass inspection. You can determine what is the problem by using compressed air. Most compression tester has a detachable hose and that hose can connect to compressed air hose.
You have to set your engine to a certain degree as marked on the timing (harmonic balancer) so that both valves are closed for that cylinder. Pump air in and listen/feel where the air is leaking out from.
Intake horn = intake valve is burnt Exhaust = exhaust valve is burnt Oil cap = rings
You can also remove the valve cover and see that both the valves are not engaged. It is best to turn it over by hand with all spark plugs removed.
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