They aren't too hard to bleed. Turn the heater knob to HOT. Fill the header tank with coolant/water (I always use 50% strength) right to the top, past the MAX mark. If there is a 3" tall rubber pipe with a plastic cap on it coming up from one of the hoses to the nearside of the engine, remove the plastic cap. Be careful because these are prone to breaking off. (If there isn't a pipe, don't worry they don't all have them). Keep topping up the tank until the coolant rises up this pipe then screw the cap on when it spills over the top. Next, look below your distributor cap and you'll see a steel pipe with an M6 bolt in it, (they all have one of these) remove this bolt (8mm socket head) and be careful not to lose the little sealing washer. You should hear air rush out of this pipe as the coolant drops down in the header tank, keep topping this up until coolant flows freely out of the bolt-hole, replace the bolt. (These have been known to block up with crud, so you may need to poke a thin screwdriver into the hole). Top up the tank to the MAX mark and squeeze the top and bottom hoses to encourage any residual air out of the system (there shouldn't be much - if any at all). Fit the cap, start the car and let it warm up. Put the heater fan on low speed and feel for warm air coming through (it is easier to feel if you put the direction dial to 'windscreen'. If you feel warm air, then it is bled up. Just keep it running and wait for the engine cooling fan to kick in (it may rise above half way on the temp gauge at first). If the fan doesn't come in or the heater doesn't get hot, then let it cool and bleed it again. (Assuming that the fan isn't just broken). Hope this helps,
Al