This stuff... Nu-Finish

Hello,

Background: I own a 1994 Saab 900s. As it is 12 years old, the paint (White) isn't that lustrious, but it is still paint (I.E. No rust, oxidation, etc.). In spots it doesn't seem to have much gloss as if the clear coat has worn off, but I don't know anything about paint/clearcoats really. I bought this Nu-Finish stuff (orange bottle) to try to help the vehicle look a little better. I used it last weekend and it seemed to help overall. As advertised, water beeds way more than it did and the overall appearance is better. Obviously not show room, but definitely better. The bottle recommends a second coat after 30 days and then you're good for a year.

Concern: When applying this stuff, my rag turned whitish-gray. This indicated to me that paint was being removed from the vehicle. The bottle says it is safe for clearcoats, so if it removes a layer of paint then: 1- how does it "protect" and allow water beeding? Can it simultaneously strip and lay protection? If so, then... 2- Does that mean that if I had good clearcoat over the entire car that my rag would not have been saturated in paint, thus just removing a layer of clearcoat?

Main question/point: I own a 2002 Jaguar X-Type. As it is only four years old, the paint (British Racing Green) is decent. When washed, the vehicle shines rather well, but does have some swirl marks and scratches. I would like to improve the shine it has after washing, but I am concerned about using this Nu-Finish stuff given the results I have with the Saab.

Summary: The result of using Nu-Finish on my Saab is positive, but I attribute that to it being 12 years old with a lack-luster finish. I would like to improve my four year old Jaguar's finish, but I am concerned about damaging it using this product. I am rather ignorant about finishes and caring for them, so if you choose to reply with answers/suggestions, please take nothing for granted and assuming I know nothing about the subject... somewhat like a "Nu-Finish for Dummies." I hope I've come accross clear enough, if not, please ask specific questions and I will answer them directly.

Thanks,

toofas

Reply to
toofas
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The short answer is that any time you are trying to make an oxidized finish shiny or remove scratches, etc, you are removing paint, the only question being how MUCH paint.... you only want to use as aggressive an abrasive product or method as is necessary. Do some searches using Google and you'll likely find a lot of information.

Here's an example:

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that tutorial is aimed at use of a specific polishing tool, the process is the same whether you use a tool as an aid, or if you do it entirely by hand.

Here's a link with Q & A on using Nu-Finish:

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Reply to
WayneC

PS, the latest rage is using a "clay bar" to clean the surface before getting any more aggressive with cleaners and polishing products. I haven't yet tried it yet, but I intend to:

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Reply to
WayneC

As Wayne says anything you rub on a car is going to remove a bit of finish. I have used Nu-Finish since reading a Consumer's Report comparison about 20 years ago. At that time it was rated high because the finish removal was minimal. I am sure by now there are equivalent or better products.

Reply to
R. Frist

I used a clay bar on my '03 9-5 last weekend and it was well worth the effort. It's surprising how much "smoother" and better looking the finish is.

I'd recommend it, just don't know how often I'm going to go for all that work.

Reply to
Bill Jackson

Is a clay bar really clay? Often wondered...

They seem to be one of the best ways to deal with removal of sap and other substances from paintwork though as you've found there's a lot of elbow grease involved. Get fit and clean your car at the same time! 8-)

Craig.

Reply to
Craig's Saab C900 Site

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Reply to
WayneC

I much prefer this site:

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Lots of helpful info for the newbie.

Personally, I find that a good swirl remover (like 3M's) used to polish the car before hand does a whole lot more than a clay bar. Clay bars do nothing to remove oxidized finish. If you car is older and/or not clear coated you will need one of the more aggressive compounds, #m and other's have a slew.

Polish first, then wax. It's all in the prep. For final finish, I like to use Klasse. Outstanding shine and durability.

Reply to
- Bob -

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