Antifreeze - installing G-05 in older vehicle?

I have a 1985 Chevy pickup with a 454, am replacing the radiator (the tanks cracked), and am thinking of changing to the new gold colored antifreeze called G-05, in hopes that it will produce fewer tube-clogging deposits inside my radiator. I have a few questions.

  1. Does G-05 reduce deposits. In other words, is it worth the effort to change types?
  2. Must I get 100% of the green antifreeze out, or is a few % residual not a problem.
  3. Should G-05 be mixed with de-ionized water, or tap water. (My tap water has a lot of minerals and chlorine in it.)

Henry

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Reply to
Jim
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First off, you are concerning yourself with something really trivial. If you keep your antifreeze fresh and flush your system every other year or so it'll take care of all of the deposits for you. Assuming you are flushing the system propeerly. Secondly, if you want to switch to the new stuff you'll have to drain the rad and what's in the motor. Most engines have drain plugs on them to let the water out of the jacket. Personally, when I want to do something like that I do it early enough in the year when I can drain and refill and drian several times over the course of a week. Then when I'm sure I'm running clear I'll add the new stuff. As for the water...Walmart has it or fill up a few jugs from a friend with soft water.

Reply to
mbjj

| |> I have a 1985 Chevy pickup with a 454, am replacing the radiator (the |> tanks cracked), and am thinking of changing to the new gold colored |> antifreeze called G-05, in hopes that it will produce fewer |> tube-clogging deposits inside my radiator. |> I have a few questions. |> 1. Does G-05 reduce deposits. In other words, is it worth the effort |> to change types? |> 2. Must I get 100% of the green antifreeze out, or is a few % residual |> not a problem. |> 3. Should G-05 be mixed with de-ionized water, or tap water. (My tap |> water has a lot of minerals and chlorine in it.)

| |First off, you are concerning yourself with something really trivial. If you |keep your antifreeze fresh and flush your system every other year or so |it'll take care of all of the deposits for you. Assuming you are flushing |the system propeerly. Secondly, if you want to switch to the new stuff |you'll have to drain the rad and what's in the motor. Most engines have |drain plugs on them to let the water out of the jacket. Personally, when I |want to do something like that I do it early enough in the year when I can |drain and refill and drian several times over the course of a week. Then |when I'm sure I'm running clear I'll add the new stuff. As for the |water...Walmart has it or fill up a few jugs from a friend with soft water.

Use a $5.00 reverse-flush kit and get it all out the first time. Rex in Fort Worth

Reply to
Rex B

You'd be better off staying with green ethylene-glycol and changing every 2 years. G-05 designed for Ford and D-C vehicles. Dex-Cool designed for 1996 and newer GM's.

Dilute collant with bottled dr> I have a 1985 Chevy pickup with a 454, am replacing the radiator (the

Reply to
Mike Behnke

I agree. Definitely fear Dexcool. G05 will not buy you anything in that vehicle. It was designed for high-silicate types like Prestone. Keep using that. Your best bet is regular 2 year changes.

You mean "use distilled water" ? .79/gallon, well worth it at that price.

Reply to
Jimmy

No. Distilled has too many minerals cooked out of it. That's why it's not advised to drink the stuff all the time.

I run tap water through a Britta filter and leave it sit for 2-3 days for the chlorine to fully dissipate.

Jimmy wrote:

Reply to
Mike Behnke

Which has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with using distilled water in a car cooling system unless you are claiming that a human body has anything in common with a vehicle.

Not that distilling "cooks minerals" out of water, it just leaves them behind.

Thru a *good* demineralizer you may either remove minerals or just replace some of the insoluble ions with soluble ones like sodium. Not that Britta is in the category of good demineralizers.

Reply to
L0nD0t.$t0we11

|Roughly 1/16/04 15:12, Mike Behnke's monkeys randomly typed: | |> No. Distilled has too many minerals cooked out of it. That's why it's |> not advised to drink the stuff all the time. | | Which has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with using | distilled water in a car cooling system unless you are | claiming that a human body has anything in common with | a vehicle. | | Not that distilling "cooks minerals" out of water, it just | leaves them behind. | |> |> I run tap water through a Britta filter and leave it sit for 2-3 days |> for the chlorine to fully dissipate. | | Thru a *good* demineralizer you may either remove minerals or | just replace some of the insoluble ions with soluble ones like | sodium. Not that Britta is in the category of good demineralizers.

According to the experts (I'm not) the ideal water would be from an RO (reverse osmosis) filter. That plus residual tap water left in the engine after a flush and drain allegedly provides a near-optimal chemistry to which one can add G-05.

Rex in Fort Worth

Reply to
Rex B

Which is exactly why its PERFECT for an engine. You don't want minerals (other than those that are a planned part of the antifreeze additive package) in your cooling system AT ALL.

Reply to
Steve

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