Hose clamps

Is there a difference in function between hose clamps that have either the two wire rings or the single steel band with slits for the screw thread? I've also seen repair manuals that say not to reuse hose clamps. Why is this?

Thanks, Dave

Reply to
Dave
Loading thread data ...

MW> The two wire clamps are used because they are cheap. They should not be reused because they will lose tensi>>

Older two-wire clamps, with a screw to tighten them, are just fine. Also, the one-wire spring clamps are okay to reuse: o (once, maybe). ^

Reply to
Bela Gazdy

|Is there a difference in function between hose clamps that have either the |two wire rings or the single steel band with slits for the screw thread? |I've also seen repair manuals that say not to reuse hose clamps. Why is |this?

Because most OE hose clamps are spring-tension with no way to tighten them. Removal and age changes the spring tension. I still remove some of them, new ones are better than they used to be. I also use Hylomar as a sealer when I install the hose. The two wire rings screw clamps work essentially the same as the worm gear type, but I never re-use them. Worm gear clamps are cheap if you buy by the box $3.95 retail for 10. I keep #3 (fuel Hose) #12 (heater hose) #24 (small rad hose) and #32 (lg rad hose), pretty much covers my range.

Reply to
Rex B

The wire rings are stronger I believe and more expensive.

The band clamps are cheap and will easily fail if not tightened right.

I find I destroy one out of every 4 or so of the band ones when installing them. I have a strong grip and I can strip the slots out of the band 'way' too easily.

I also don't think I have ever seen a clamp of either kind come off with

0 damage done to them either by stretching them or bending the threads.

I only use them a second time if I 'have' to and if they hold, fine, but I always buy a replacement as soon as I can, so if it does fail, I now have a new replacement.

I figure it is about a 60/40 crap shoot whether a used one holds. 60% it holds, 40% it lets go or leaks.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

This has not been my experience with the aircraft quality band clamps. Junk of either type should be avoided.

Cheapo clamps can cost just about as much as a good one.

Reply to
Larry Smith

|The band clamps are cheap and will easily fail if not tightened right.

True if you buy cheap band clamps. Parker-Hannifin makes Ideal, which is the name brand in the U.S. They make at least 6 grades. In our market it's a price-driven commodity, we we only carry the cheaper grades. I have the better ones special-ordered when I need to stock up. They aren't that much more expensive, but all the parts are stainless, plus they have better design to keep the worm gear in the track. They are infinitely re-usable. To find the good ones locally, you can specify air-conditioning clamps for under about 1" diameter at most parts stores. Beyond that you may have to go to an aircraft or racer supply house. Commercial refrigeration suppliers should have them as well. They are worth looking for.

Reply to
Rex B

I buy good band clamps mostly and never have failures. The only ones I have ever stripped were cheap Chinese models from the cheap hardware store. Leaks at hoses often result from old rubber that hardens. These clamps are not perfectly round and depend on some "squish" in the rubber for sealing. That's why the sealer idea mentioned above is excellent protection. Generally though, I use new clamps for coolant and oil lines and throw the used ones in an emergency box that gets used for helping strangers along the road or household projects.

Reply to
Tomcat14

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.