Once I get the broken water pump bolt removed from my 93 F150 5.0 liter... the next question is what do I use for a replacement?
I'm assuming it's a Grade 5 type bolt - is that correct?
Do I need to go to a dealer or will any Grade 5 bolt (of the right size obviously_) work?
Probably. If it isn't, it won't hurt to use a hardened bolt.
Unless it appears special (locating shoulder or similar) any bolt should work. The trick is getting the exact correct length as I assume it's a blind hole that it's threading into. Is there another bolt that you've removed that you can match up? i.e. are all the water pump mounting bolts the same length?
good luck
nate
You've obviously never had the timing chain cover off of a 5 liter Ford. he can't use a stud in place of the bolt, he'll never get the timing cover back on without munging the pan gasket.
Thread pitch has nothing to do with bolt grade.
Better advice would be to use thread sealer on the bolt threads so coolant doesn't wick down the bolt causing the exact problem that he's been battling, but you'd have said so if you had ever actually worked on one of these engines. As for "in lieu of a torque tool;" if you don't have the proper tools to do the job and you're not willing to procure them, you don't have any business attempting the job to begin with.
Not an issue if the proper procedures are followed.
Not an issue if proper procedures are followed.
Thanks. I do have a Torque Wrench so properly tightening everything shouldn't be a problem.
I do have the other bolts that I can use to match up the new one.
The snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net entity posted thusly:
Hmm? Grade denotes strength, not thread.
"swimdad16" wrote
I have a picture here that I think I got from
It shows 2 bolts; one silvery "normal" bolt, the other is one of Ford's black double-ended things with the hex part-way down and different threads on each end.
Item#: BK 6051340 Attributes: Water pump stud kit Additional Contents: 2 Studs Length: 5" & 5.375" Thread size: 5/16"-18 Type of packaging: Carded
Hmm, I will have to check that out, that might be the ticket for an alternator strap mount on a Studebaker (or could be cut down to work for same) this is why I pay attention to discussions involving cars other than my own!
nate
MasterBlaster wrote:
Um, has anyone even bothered to check the dealer price on a replacement bolt? It could be cheaper than getting a bolt kit and you would have the correct one.
Ted
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