Replacing power window regulator on '99 Camry

... and by "motor" I meant "window"... the *window* sank in position
over time.

404, brain not found, please insert brain and strike a key when ready.

Sorry about that

Michael

On Mon, 28 May 2012 18:36:23 -0700 (PDT), Michael


Stop banging on it.    Use a glue like JBWeld .

Oh, good.  I just did a couple of hours ago, waiting for it to dry.  I
was just hoping no one would respond saying it needs to move
freely.... aaaaaaahhhh!

Thanks.

Michael

On Mon, 28 May 2012 21:32:34 -0700 (PDT), Michael


Well, I hate to say this but  I was taking your word that it didn't.
When you said you were banging on it, I thought you were trying to
force it on far enough that it would get stuck and not rotate.   If
you wanted it to rotate, why wouldn't you just slide it on?  If the
shaft had no groove on which a retaining washer could be attached, and
no threads, then I suppose it was fixed in place to begin with.    But
you'll know after the glue sets -- well, I see you posted 13 hours
ago, so the glue has set.

 Before it got cold, I was trying to get the inside panel off the
front door of my 2000 Camry Solara, but I didn't finish, and even
though it's probably the same as the rear window,  I wasn't going to
look closely at the window mechanism anyhow.

Please let me know how it turns out, even if it makes me feel bad and
look bad. .   --- Oh, I see that you glued it a couple hours before
you posted, and I posted only an hour before you posted, so I guess
I'm not responsible.  Whew..   But still post back to let me know.

Oh, okay, will do.  If I messed it up (with my luck I would have glued
the thing on upside-down) I would just run to AutoZone where they have
the part for $99 anyhow, or maybe at the junkyard if they have the
part.

It's not a rotating part... I think it just is supposed to secure the
various scissor parts together, but why they designed it able to so
easily come off, I'll never know...

Glue had set this morning.  Last night it was still wet and when I put
it in the door it came off again (grr!) but maybe that was bc I didn't
have the right ratio of glue.  I was more careful the second time.

Thanks!

Michael

The JB Weld worked perfectly!  Thanks!  =3D)

Putting the door back on was a challenge.  Put the door on, only to
realize I had to pull it back off, attach it from the TOP (otherwise
there will be an inch gap bet. the door and the window) and THEN punch
the bottom clips in.  Sigh.

Thanks again!

Michael

On Tue, 29 May 2012 20:07:35 -0700 (PDT), Michael


Well, it was your idea.  I was trying to be funny when I repeated it
(although in this case I would have recommended it anyhow..  My other
favorite "glue" for strength, where there is room for added material,
is PC-7, or its twin, PC-11.  One is black, the other white.   There
may be other differences but I haven't experienced them. I know that
PC-7 can go on a slowly leaking pipe while the pipe is leaking and
still dry waterproof (although you have to keep pushing it back on the
pipe for 20 minutes or so  because the water makes it fall down.  PC-7
and 11 are thicker when first mixed, and need a wet finger to smooth
them over, but they're not as runny as JBWeld.  I suppose if needed
one could wait a while with JBWeld, but I don't like to wait at all
once something is mixed**.  PC-7,11 will stick even to glass, although
maybe JBW will too.

 **(I once put a gas tank patch on in very hot weather and it set in 4
or 5 minutes before I was done, and continued to look  I had to drive
home from work with a maximum of 2 or 3 gallons in my tank. Had to
plan the route so there were always gas stations, and still I ran out
of gas once.  I bought another epoxee kit and the next morning I put
it in the freezer for 5 minutes before I started to work. Plus I
worked faster, plus it wasn't as hot at 8 in the morning.   The second
patch lasted for 5 years, iirc.  Because of traffic I couldn't change
lanes, and I had driven over a chrome strip the previous day.  Mad a
hole the size of a quarter. )

That's how one learns.  Everyone has gone through this.   Even those
who go to mechanics school are not taught how to put a door back
together, I would bet.   It's when it takes 4 tries to get something
back together that I wonder where my mind was, but that happens too.

wrote:


BTW, this story revolves around something sold as Gas Tank Epoxy.
Complete with a fiiberglass patch 3x3".  It didn't look like PC7 or
JBW, and I wouldnt' try to use a general purpose epoxy on a gas tank
unless I had no choice.

Strangely enough the patch failed the day I got my car back from being
painted, as if the fumes of the paint had attacked it.  But I patched
it a third time (a second successful time) the next day (It had only
been dripping, not pouring out like the first time)  and that patch
lasted the same legnth of time plus or minus a couple months, even
though the car wasn't painted at the end.   As if it was just a
coincidence that it failed after the car was painted.    I must have
patched it again, and this time it lasted until I got rid of the car.
Even with four patches, it was a lot easier than replacing the gas
tank.  By the thrrd time I could do the patch in 10 or 15 minutes.

...


Wow I'll have to keep that in mind!  Where did you get your PC-7 and
PC-11?

Made a hole the size of a quarter, huh... I would have tried a wine
bottle cork or something, while waiting to find glue...

On Wed, 30 May 2012 22:52:16 -0700 (PDT), Michael


Ace Hardware has it.  I but it in a pair of 4 oz cans.  If I use
sepearate screwdrivers or popsicle sticks to take it out of the can,
and never let them mix, it lasts at least 10 years.   I don't remember
if Lowes or Home Depot have it or not, but Ace has a of things those
two places don't.   I needed a long, 6",  #1 Phillips screwddriver and
those 2 didn't have it.  Ace had 3 models.   I needed a couple square
U-bolts, and those two had not a one, but Ace had 12 sizes.

OTOH, I've noticed that if iI want black GE (silicon) sealant, I can
only get that at an autoparts store, not a hardware store.

The white stuff says it's good for water iirc, but I don't think it's
betteer.   At any rate, I'd probably buy only one of them to start.

Just when I thought I was kind of clever, my wife emails me that the
window is stuck again.

Yay.

Now, I noticed when applying the JB Weld the first time, I was able to
clean it off with carburetor cleaner before it had set.  Will I be
able to use carb cleaner to remove JB Weld after it has set?

Otherwise I guess I'll just go to CarQuest or AutoZone to get the
part...

... although for $133 to $138 for the part, I'm not exactly looking
forward to it...

For future reference, the driver side rear part number is 741-829 at
AutoZone.  Apparently the cheaper part number 741-830 is not
appropriate for this application, yay...

Michael wrote:

(...)


MFR Part # TO1550118

$28.79

:)

--Winston

Ooh... thanks!  I think that's just the regulator though... it's the
regulator plus motor I need.  It's the gear holding the two together
that keeps coming off...!

Michael wrote:

(...)


Check Rockauto's website for your part, I advise.
They've treated me very well over the years.

--Winston

I checked the site but it seems like they prefer to sell the motor
assembly separately for some reason.

Thanks anyway though.  I appreciate the time you put into helping me.

A friend of mine sent me this, and I am really inspired to go get some
1/16" electrodes and a welding helmet (or at least those welding
goggles).



Wow.

I've only got two batteries (unless I can bug the neighbors to borrow
their car battery... uh... naah.)  So I'll see if 1/16" electrodes
work (in the video he used 1/8").

Michael

Michael wrote:

(...)


Good luck!  :)

--Winston

I tested the metal parts with a magnet this morning.  The plate is
steel, but the gear/plug isn't attracted to my magnet.  Since it's so
light I'm guessing it's aluminum.

... and the guy from Home Depot said, no way will I be able to weld
aluminum to steel.

So, I'm trying JB Weld again, but this time with a steel washer behind
the gear/plug.

I took a few pictures, and hopefully if this works I'll post them...

Thanks again y'all,

Michael

On Thu, 31 May 2012 15:41:09 -0700 (PDT), Michael


I just use water to remove it before it sets.   Maybe a paper towel
held against the a Coke bottle filled with water,  When it's somewhat
set, I might use a knife to cut off extra glue.   If it's farily hard
and I want it all off, not sure what I would use.


It looks like Winston found you a good deal.