2000 Power Window Problem

When the fronts are bad the rears can still go up? If all three individual switches work and the two rears at the main panels work, then you can pretty much be sure it's physically the front two switches at the panel. Haynes manual's "typical" diagram would suggest all three individual switches should continue to work.

But it's best to check using a multimeter (free loaner at many parts stores) to make sure before replacing stuff.

There are online Toyota dealers offering good prices. Google for those.

What you're describing is a classic system of a bad electric motor. As the motor ages, the resistance in the windings increases, and after just a short amount of use the motor overheats and stops working. This is why it will work agin after you let it sit for a bit to cool off. The problem also occurs more often when you are trying to put the window up rather than down because of the extra effort required to raise the window.

I have not had a problem with the rear windows but I don't put them down nearly as much. One thing that I should point out is that when the driver's window is giving the problem it is slow moving when it is coming back up. When it gives the problem it may move a half an inch and stop or it may move several inches. What makes me think it is not the motors is that both the front windows have given the problem at the same time. I would have thought it was unlikely that both motors would have given out at about the same time.

I know how hard or really easy the switches are to change. How much trouble is a motor to change and how much would it cost for the part?

Thanks for the help.

Ed

qslim usually knows exactly what he's talking about, but you could also check for binding (or bent) or excessive dirt in the side channels, spray with silicone lubricant prior to replacing the motor.

I think your case is electrical, probably a current supply or electrical path issue. Maybe a DC current draw test will tell a few things while you operate the windows. After all, both windows don't bind at the same time in the same direction once a week and then work perfectly during other times (which should suggest the motors may actually be OK).

I believe the switch panel is a pry-up. A motor is about $50-76 (reman to new) on rockauto.com plus shipping. Or for $5 more go to your local Kragen, Checkers, Murray's, Advance Auto. It's quicker both to order and for lifetime warranty claims. Also check your local junk yard to see if the switch panel is available at a low price. I wouldn't underestimate the usefulness of these places.

Since the motors are the same for the same side, you might attempt swapping the front and rear on one side to check. It should take < 5 minutes to take the door panel off on your second try. Check the free online repair guide on an older Camry for reference:

You can borrow multimeter and other tools from AutoZone for free. You pay a deposit for the tools first and get refund on return.

The window motors are usually $150 - 200 each, and the master switch is about in that same range. Labor for the motor is between 1 and 1.5hrs (per side) and the switch shouldn't be more than .5 or so. As far as my other post regarding a crapped out motor, you shouldn't ever replace a part soley based on what someone on a message board who hasn't seen your car says. Troubleshooting this problem is about as simple as it gets for anyone who has some brains and experience with basic automotive problems, they just need to put their hands on it.

Good point. A squirt of lube before $500 worth of motors wouldn't be too imprudent. :)