Rear Window Defogger Help

My 75 SB has a unworking rear window defogger and now I know why. I seem to be missing something. I found a loose wire under the back seat with a clip on it like it needs to be plugged into something. I put my 12v test light on it, and when I flip on the defogger switch, my tester lights up. Now I decide to see where the wire coming from the grid goes, so I started pulling on the wire and it came out having been cut. I have no idea where that wire connects. I attached it to the wire from the switch, but that didn't make the grid warm up, so I figure I'm missing something. The guy that owned the car before me butchered allot of things on this car, and it's taking time to fix everything. There are 3 more wires under the seat that are cut too. I don't know if they have anything to do with the defogger or not. What is supposed to be under the rear seat that I need to get the grid to warm up?

Blake

Reply to
Benson
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. There are 3 more wires under the seat that are cut too. I

Look at J9 on line three(3) there is supposed to be a relay there.

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Reply to
EuroBug

And there is more detail on my web site under Electrical/Misc/Window Defogger Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Blake,

Before you go through all that trouble, you may want to start by making sure your window grid is actually good ... in my case, it wasn't. I had open circuits all over the grid and for now have just decided to go with an external unit (blower / blower with heat) from JCWhitney. It's working fine until I'm ready to replace the back window.

Larry

Reply to
Larry St. Regis

...............It's too bad that more people don't try those small 12-volt fans for defrosting the rear window. Does your's actually have heat? My experience is that just a simple fan will clear the glass pretty quick. Does that heating element draw a lot of electrons away from more important duties?

Reply to
Tim Rogers

Tim,

The defroster (available at JCWhitney) has a fan and a fan/heat switch (3 position). It's wired directly to the battery, and has its own inline fuse. I've noticed no adverse drain on the system ... as long as the motor's running.

Larry

Reply to
Larry St. Regis

I got this one from Napa. Using it on the windshield.

http://63.230.74.177/baja/page7.html Max

Reply to
Max Welton

OK... I need a relay.... Where do I find one? Nobody appears to carry those. I've checked every VW parts place I could think of. Real Source, Aircooled.net, JC Whitney, cip1, oeveedub & btlmex. The only site I couldn't get into was Bughaus. I even checked Ebay. If anyone knows where I can get one please let me know.

Blake

Reply to
Benson

Radio Shack Cat # 275-226 if you want it now.

Reply to
jjs

Replying to my own message - You don't need a stock plug-n-play original, right? There are lots of alternatives if you are willing to fiddle a bit. High Amp is the clue.

Reply to
jjs

I had one of those about five years ago, and it was ok, except I had to hold it up to the windshield while driving, cause it kept falling down from my "tape Job".............worked pretty well for me and I could pull it down and move it to the areas most needing the heat. Where there's a will there's a way.

Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply MUADIB®

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Reply to
MUADIB®

Hiya Blake,

Yes, you're going to need a high amp relay in order to make that window function. I have been quite successful in picking these up (used, of course) at VW swaps. I'm sure a VW online salvage yard (think Wayout Salvage) could round one up for you. You are looking for part number 311 963 141A.

Mike

1970 AS Bug
Reply to
Bookwus1

The switch on the dash supplies 12V to a relay under the LHS of the back seat. The other side of the relay coil goes to ground.

The relay contacts pass current from the battery to the LHS of the rear window.

The RHS of the rear window is grounded.

Before you get too far into this you should just check the resistance of the grid on the rear window. The resistive element on these is usually gone, even though it looks like it is there. It should measure about 5 Ohms. If it measures anywhere above 15 Ohms it won't be worth reconnecting. It is most likely that yours measures infinity.

Sorry, but that's just the way it is after 30 years.

-

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

Our site was down for a bit this last weekend due to a server crash. It's back up now. Here is the link for that relay:

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Regards, Eric
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Reply to
Eric Wheeler

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