2004 Tahoe Z71 - Anyone running wider tires?

How is your math? The first number in a tire size is the width of the tread in milimeters. The second is the sidewall measurement from the rim to the outer edge of tread as a percentage of the width dimension. And of course the last is the rim size. What you are looking for is therefore going to have a higher first number and lower middle if you are using the same rim size. For example:

185-70-14 = 2(185 x 0.70) divided by 25.4 mm per inch + 14 = 24.2" diameter.

195-65-14 = 2(195 x 0.65) divided by 25.4 mm per inch + 14 = 24" diameter

205-60-14 = 23.7 "

And so on. The problem is not all sizes are made. So you may find you need to step up the rim size to get the correct match. BTW the "2" is for 2 sidewall measurements in a diameter of the mounted tire.

Good luck with your search. I learned all this when my son wanted to put

14" Mazda Miata rims (fancier than the plain steel rims that he had) on his Protege which came with 13" rims.

What size is on it now? 265/75/16? Check

for reviews on tires

Adair

No problem with math... I have 265-70-17 Wranglers from the factory and a

305-65-17 is close, roughly 1" taller so that means roughly "pi" inches greater in circumference. What I cannot tell from the math exercise is whether will I experience any rubbing on the steering tires at full left or right stop with a 40 mm wider tire.

Just looking for anyone that is actually running these or a similar size tire on either a Tahoe, a Yukon or a Silverado. A 305-60-17 seems it would be perfect, but tire rack does not list this as a valid size.

Thanks for all of your help.

Kip

Can't help you with rubbing on the frame, etc. but for the running speed, don't waste your time with the math.

Just go to the website of the tire manufacturer(s) you are considering and compare the rotating speed vs vehicle speed data. They will report the value in rotations per mile or rpm at x mph or something. You can compare the numbers more accurately than calculating the theoretical circumference. While all the math presented may be correct, tires are made of inflated rubber, not stone.

The possibility of rubbing at full left or right is another issue. If I were you I would turn the wheel all the way and crawl under it and look. If you have more than an inch of clearance all around that inner edge it should do fine. I had forgotten about that possibility and I shouldn't have cuz the turning radius on my extended cab Sierra has been an issue as it is. Like parking the camper at some of the over crowded campgrounds.

And the "news skimmer" is right many of the tire websites do have size calculators built in so they can make suggestions of other size/rim combinations. That gets you into a whole new area of consideration. 18-20 inch rims that are a bit wider and constructed in such a way that the mounting area is deeper in the rim can be had. This holds the tire further out from the axle so that rub is minimized. I believe that measurement is called the offset of the rim but not sure. Wider tires and a wider stance would make the rig look tougher.

I just spent about $800+ of your money though. If money was no object and I lived where I do now (Vermont) I would put a great set of snows on the original rims and buy the new set of wider tires on say 20" chrome spoked rims for the summer. Well anyhow time to take my meds and see if I won PowerBall.

{ SNIP!! }

If you plan to use the stock rims (probably 7" wide) then the size you have now is the widest you can use on them. You may want to consider new rims as well.

messagenews:HB8ah.39315$ snipped-for-privacy@tornado.southeast.rr.com...