73' blazer full size 4x4 floor replacement advice

There are ready made panels you can use. I wouldn't cut anything until I have the replacements in hand. Then I would only cut enough to remove the rust and then trim the replacement panel to fit. Leave as much parent metal as possible and then the next time you do a repair you will have more to work with. That plate is part and parcel with the inner fender and from the sounds of things you need new ones. It is triangular in shape is it not? Here is a site you will like.

Best Regards Gordie

Thanks I will do that.

That plate is part and parcel with the inner fender and from the

Yeah that part is right there behind the front wheels. I seen it rusting out and I will replace it ASAP. I wonder what it is for? Also can you recommend a good wheel well or mud flap that I can use on the back wheels to keep the water and mud from collecting in the body by the door? It seems to be a design flaw that allows for quick rusting of a hard part to replace.

. .

. . Reading yer original post has left me to Understand that your intent is to possibly Somehow initiate a repair on this using Tin or steel or some other form of matierial.

But......I personally would like to give some Understanding of the total outlay of time and Cash that is going to be involved in this Kool ride of yours. Too many times folks Endeavor to take on challenges that are Time consuming and potentially bankrupting.

i hope this is not one of those times...... and i hope you understood what i wuz saying....

respectfully submitted, ~:~ MarshMonster

=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D

73' blazer full size 4x4 floor replacement advice Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sat, Oct 30, 2004, 2:09pm From: snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (D.L=A0Man) Under the front seats both floors are rusted pretty good all the way to the rocker panel. I am trying to pull it out but I don't know where to cut it off at, or what I should do to replace it once it is out? There is allot of ideas floating around like pulling the floor out and welding in some new sheet metal. That sounds pretty easy but I don't know how far to take it. Should I cut it until it gets to the front of the floor like where the pedals are? And then replace it with some sheet metal all the way. I know that I'll have to bend it so it goes up behind the pedals. I can include some pics if you want to see them also. I have another question too. Right behind the front wheels in the wheel well on both sides there is a plate there that is bolted into place that covers a hole. It has rusted out on every chevy that I have seen and then leaves a great place for water to flow into. What is that for? And would it hurt something later if I just covered the hole with something else like stainless steel or something that won't rust as easily?

Thanks in advance to all that reply. D.

. . Reading yer original post has left me to Understand that your intent is to possibly Somehow initiate a repair on this using Tin or steel or some other form of matierial.

But......I personally would like to give some Understanding of the total outlay of time and Cash that is going to be involved in this Kool ride of yours. Too many times folks Endeavor to take on challenges that are Time consuming and potentially bankrupting.

i hope this is not one of those times...... and i hope you understood what i wuz saying....

respectfully submitted, ~:~ MarshMonster

No no I get it marshmonster R.U.S.T. B.U.C.K.E.T. very Understandably clever and needed. But it wasn't at all Moving or helpful so thanks anyway for nothing. But I would like you to know that it has allot of good Noteworthy things going for it. It has a new paintjob, No Unneeded emissions crap on it. A 4" lift with a 3" bodylift Tons of other potential to numerous to list. But the best Side to this story is its not my wallet its my brothers:-)

haha, well, if its your brothers pocket, I have some advice that me and one of my buddies used on his 78 Jimmy. If you have the time, then take some 1/8" sheet metal, and go from teh back of the cab up to the firewall. It is worth it, especially if you plan on keeping the truck, becuase with that old of a truck, they will rust some more. Might as well head up the problem. I havent done anything like that on a 73, so I dont know if the mounting points are different. So before you take the floor out, take a quick look to see where the current floor is mounted. If that doesnt work, it is quite easy to just quickly weld or even bolt it down. Welding is your best bet though. One thing that noone forgets, is that it is smart as hell to seal the floor to the mounting points securely. Some silicone, or any other caulking should work fine. That would help lots, seeing as how obviously you have an allright chewer there, and if it has rusty floorboards, it isnt going to be a trailer queen anytime soon :) And one other thing, dont give up on it, if you have some good stuff in it, then keep at it. It is always worth it.

1/8" is overkill..... 1/4" is just stupid... 1/4" weighs just over 10lbs per square foot... you're talking a floor pan that will weigh around 400 pounds! 16ga (.060") galvanized would be plenty for a floor pan and weighs 1/4 as much.

-Bret

I see thanks. I would have noticed I think when I saw the metal in front of me that it was to much. But I am glad to know it now it will save some of the steps.

Ok so say I get the metal sheets and I have just measured them and they are bent in the right places and ready to install. Now what? Should I weld them in place or bolt them down? After that I am pretty sure that I am going to spray on some under coating and go over the seams with some body seal. I should lay down carpet, then I have to bolt the new seats in (on the original bolts sticking out). Then I should be done with that aspect of the fix-r-upper right? Anything else that you can think of?

You do know that floor panels are available as repair panels from some places correct? No reason to just buy the steel and form it IF you can buy them ready made and just weld them in. Take a look at

have pre formed floor panels for 25 bucks per side. Plus most ofthe other body parts as well.