OK, I don't know what Google has done, but you can no longer search news
What is the average charge for the part and the labor to replace the fuel
pump in a '99 Suburban 1500 2WD. It appears the wonderful electric fuel pump
suddenly quit on my wife today. Fortunately it was right in front of the
house! It's had a flaky jittery sensor for about a year now allowing the
fuel gauge to jump to F and then shake while running where the actual level
is. Well, today it just stopped. No pump whine when the key is turned to ON
and no start. Have to love electronic components like these!!!
Looking at AutoZone and NAPA, it appears the pump assembly is between $269
and $293! Now what is the expected labor costs. Will be checking with the
local stealer and another local shop in the morning, but wanted to see what
others have seen.
If you can find a good independent shop expect between $400 and $500,
they are going to mark the pump up and charge labor.
At the dealership expect between $500 and $700, and they will only
use an AC Delco part.
I would imagine you can find a shade tree shop to do it for around $350.
As to loving electric parts like that, yeah sure do, you got an 8 year old
whose fuel pump runs at a higher pressure than the mechanical ones, and has
diaphragm to blow and fill the crankcase with fuel. They move a tremendous
of fuel, remember there is a return line on fuel injection, mechanicals only
move the 24
gallons in the tank once.
On your pricing, the "Master" brand is junk. replace the sock as well as
the pump, and if it has a pulsator replace it as well.
Thanks for the note back. I took a look at the owner's manual tonight and
see there is a fuel solenoid and a fuse under the hood and hope to check
those first in the morning. Can't imagine I'd get that lucky! Any way to
actually test the solenoid? Continuity? Will it cause no action? Would think
I won't be tackling it myself should it actually need replacing. Just don't
have the time or desire to mess with it in the colder and very wet weather.
The frustration just comes from the part's inaccessibility. Sure the fuel
cools and lubes it, but it seems there would be another way to mount it on
the frame and still intercool it.
Move two selenoids around. Continuity sometime give false positives, the
coil can be fine cold, but as soon as a load hits the break in the windings
pulls apart.. Relay runs about
$14. As to fuse, yeah sometimes they just blow, but usually they blow for a
reason. and it could be something as simple as a bad ground.
Nissan tried frame mounting fuel pumps on the early fuel injected z models
and they had very high failure rates. VW air cooled tried the same thing
and had issues as well. Course the way fuel pressure was regulated may
have had something to do with that as well. They varied voltage to the pump
to control output. Electric fuel pumps are pushers, and the closer to the
fuel source the better they work.
Low pressure pumps, like the generic diaphram style used on carbed engines
run fairly cool, and they dont run constantly, when fuel pressure builds
they stop, when it drops they start, but the higher pressure rotary pumps
needed for fuel injection run hotter. Some of the ricers have gotten smart
and have an access panel over the fuel pump area, but thats another soucre
for rust, and if the panel isnt properly sealed when its re-installed, water
entry into the car. and I have seen the bolts that hold the panel in snap
off from rusted threads when removed. because of the close proximty to the
fuel tank, it has to be pulled inorder to drill the bolts out, unless you
want to risk drilling a hole in the tank.
Also I think in many cases (not saying its the issue here) the high cost of
fuel causes people to buy gas places they normally wouldnt to save 2 cents a
gallon, which is usually less than a dollar saved on a fill up. Water, and
dirt can raise hell with electric fuel pumps.
Well, I felt the solenoid at key on and it was clicking. Pulled the fuse and
it's good. Pulled the solenoid, checked contacts and put it back. Same
click, no fuel pump action. Having her towed to a local dealer that will
give me the trade price on the pump and lifetime warranty on parts AND labor
for $600. Sounds good to me since just one more replacement would make up
the little more cost of having them do it should the pump crap out again. It
does have 95K miles on it so I can't complain to much! :-)
Something VERY important to remember about GM fuel pumps. The fuel in
the tank cools and lubricates the fuel pump and especailly the motor.
If you run it low on fuel a lot you will shorten its life and many
have found out the hard way. (GM does not tell you about this) In the
real world, you really do not want to run it much below a 1/4 tank
often. I have a 17 year old suburbam with orginal fuel pump that works
fine and I have made it a point to keep tank half full or better all
of its life except when it breifs gets low on trip sometimes between
fuel fills but it does have a 40 gallon tank and even when I burn 30
or so it still has 10 gallons in it. I know a lot about the motors
used in those pumps because my dad was involved with a company that
was testing and designing a motor for GM to use in those pumps several
years before they did it in production. It was a challange to design a
motor that could use gasoline as a lubricatant for its bearings. I
know that he provided the motors to GM for first few years but I have
no idea who does now. He passed away many years ago and took that
knowledge with him. Also TBI pumps tend to last longer than Vortec
ones because they operate at a lot lower line pressure and motor do
not work as hard or get as warm. (12 to 14PSI vs 60 to 65PSI)
What's even worse is that the vehicle that Snoman is referring to
has a fuel pump "module". Which retains fuel around the fuel
pump even when the fuel level has gone down. As usual, his
information is either outdated, or incorrect.
The return line on my 93 tbi dumps right on the fuel pump motor...in the
Even though that fuel has been to the engine compartment and back, wouldn't
it be relatively cool compared to the motor? Gasoline does have a positive
JT coefficient so the pressure drop across the regulator should provide some
temperature drop. And does the engine ever use the entire flow....no
recycle? I doubt it.
I can say this....I just replaced the pump last month. It was put in service
in May of 1993 in Hot, Texas (136K miles ago) and was run to empty damn near
every tank. It also takes me about an hour to drive 8 miles to work...no
telling how many hours that pump had on it.
The only thing that saddened me is the way it went out. I fired it up one
Saturday, drove to Taco Cabana for some tacos before an 8 a.m. barber shop
appointment and when I came out with a full belly, the pump had retired.
Ever notice how you can turn an electric fan off, then when you turn it back
on it wont run? And how sometimes you can take a pencil or something and
spin the blades and it will run, untill you shut it back off? same with the
fuel pump. although they will usually be at the bottom end of allowed
pressure before they go.
I have noticed that phenomenon....instead of pencil though, I smacked the
fuel tank with a 4x4 trying to jar the pump to spin.
I checked the resistance trough the harness and it was over 60 ohms....which
told me it wasn't going to run ever again. The new pump was 1.something ohms
on the bench.
I wonder if we could build a database of pump failures versus ohms and
crudely extrapolate it to predicting failures.
That could be possible for some failures, and if it were a solid enough
method the OEM's could add that to the computer, then give a warning when
it's recomended to replace it.
Nahhh, they would never do it. ;-)
The trouble here is this is quite false and the blind leading the
blind. I know how those things operate because over 25 years ago my
father reped for a electric servo/motor company that built prototypes
for GM testing and GM later used for several years. They had a lot of
problems getting motor to last using gasoline as a lube for bearing as
I recall him telling me back then. You go ahead and run you pump low
if you want. I have never had first pump fail yet in any of mine and I
have owned 4 and one for 17 years and counting. If you check around
you will find that basically everyone that has shorter pump life on a
GM vehicle runs tank low alot. Vortec pumps are less tolerant because
they develop more heat due to much higher pressure and motor current.
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