a) 25 years ago, GM had but a few vehicles that used an electric
b) a 1999 Chevy Suburban isn't 25 years old.
Good to know if time travel is ever perfected.
If you check around, you'll find people who don't have shorter
fuel pump life that run their tanks low also.
Vortec pump current is typically 2-3 amps higher than a TBI pump.
That hardly equates to "much higher."
Nine years ago I built a home made smoke machine that used an
electric fuel pump as the pressure source to force the smoke out
of the heat chamber into the connecting hose. The pump runs bone
dry and still works fine to this day.
The pump has been replaced and the truck is back on the road. I've always
heard the same thing about not letting the tank get much below 1/4 often.
Just out of habit I keep both trucks around a half or better unless on a
long trip, etc. The service guy at the dealer was surprised to hear this
truck had the original pump at 93K miles since they tend to die around the
50K mile mark or so. He also noted to keep the tank at 1/4 or better to help
I sure hope they checked pin pressure on the wiring harness going
to the fuel pump module. More often then not, the problem ends
up being the wiring harness. Just had one in today.....99 Escalade,
had three pumps put in elsewhere, turned out to be the wiring
harness....one of the female pins doesn't have enough pressure and
starts arcing and eventually you get no fuel pump action and often
the connector on the fuel pump module melts around the affected
Well, if they didn't notice any melting around the pin, that will now be
their problem. The amps draw was low and the level sensor has been flaky and
vibrating for over a year and a half now. With a lifetime warranty on parts
and labor, I'm not worried about what happens with it now.
I have just replaced the fuel pump in my 98 K1500 for the second time
in a year and a half. The first time a mechanic charged me $450 and
this time I did it myself. The first was a Master and this time it is
an Airtek. They both have the same product number and both are around
$300, so I am thinking that they are made by the same company. Bosch's
pump is about $100 more. Might have been worth the extra money. Make
sure you put fuel pressure guage on the valve by the intake manifold to
see if you are getting any pressure. It is supposed to be between 60
and 66 psi. I run my tank to empty often, so that could be the problem,
according to everyone else.
Looks like you got most of the testing done. There is a pin right next
to the fuel pump relay thatyou can short +12V to and it will make the
fuel pump run.
I went through the same set of issues; It would run for 30 seconds and
then not at all for about an hour.
I was able to get under the truck and bang on the gas tank with my
fists and as long as I did this, the fuel pump would not bind up and
the truck would continue running.
Still had to have it towed in becasue I could not strap myself under
the truck and let someone drive it in. :-) :-)
Check for a recall on it.. the wiring harness and sensor conectors. I
have a 2000 and there were about 88K of them recalled. I got the labor
for dropping the tank and re-wiring covered under the recall. I had to
pay for the part and the actual additional labor to change the pump
I have a '99 Tahoe and just replaced the fuel pump. I had the exact same
thing happen to me, fuel gauge all over the place. It cost me $540 Can for
the fuel Module and 3 hours labour and then of course the tax man cometh.
The new fuel level sensor comes with the module. If you look at the old one,
you will be able to see the tracking of the pick-ups across the different
Strange thing is the fuel gauge is still slamming past Full and then drops
back to the correct level and has a slight vibration when running. Does the
sensor "always" fix this or could the gauge really be flaky itself????
Haven't called the dealer service center yet on it.
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