I have a 01 Silverado(Loaded LS)2500 HD ExCab. LB with an 8.1 &
Allison. I've put on a 6" Fabtech Lift with 35X12.50 TSL Super
Swampers, A K&N Air Kit, Hypertech PP3, Magnaflow Cat-back ex. Willmore
3 step nerf bars, and TracRac adjustable racks and diamond plate tool
box. I have 22k on it and It's been a great truck. I am contemplating
finally doing some performance work under the hood. I've looked into
putting a carbon fiber ram air hood kit on the truck $$, and plunking
dow the $$$ and installing a Whipple Supercharger. Obviously the
Whipple is the more expensive way to go, but the higher performance
Does anyone have any other performance upgrades they could suggest?
I've looked into a throttle body spacer and descreening the MAF sensor,
but I doubt that would make much of an increase in HP.
Let to much dirt in, when they rebuilt it only being two years old they said
it had all kinds of sand in it, wears the bearings out and then you have no
oil pressure, If you would like experiment for your self and lear what I
learned, between the two engines it only cost me about 6,000, First one was
a new rebuild then I put a K& N in it and Wrecked it, so it had to be
Ouch $$$! After reading the test results I'm going back to the stock AC
Delco filter!!! Thanks for the advance warning. I never really noticed
much of a difference with the K&N, but I was going off the
recommendations of a couple of "wingnuts" who swore the K&N was better.
Do you know anyone with a Whipple? If so what do they have to say about
This is more B.S. about K&N's. If you "wrecked" a engine because of a
K&N filter, why didn't you call them? That Million Mile warranted
would have been in effect.
The only Reason GM is having fits about them, is some people over oil
them, causing oil to leak down the intake track to sensors. Same with
Ford & Chrysler.
K&N Filters were developed for use on Semi Trucks. Engines where
1,000,000 Miles is the Rebuild point. Semi Trucks in a large fleet get
drove all over the lower 48, to Canada, even Alaska. Some times down to
Mexico as well. They transverse in a few runs the harshest of
enviroments in the north American continent.
Car people heard about these filters and got K&N to adapt them
for Racing usage. Including Off Road Desert Racing. Where the only
Modification required is a Coarse Foam Pre-Filter.
I have ran K&N Filters on stock engines & highly modified
Race engines. I have NEVER had a engine fail from ANY air Filter. Not
even el-cheepo off brand paper filters.
I have on the other hand Over Heated engines running with
blown radiators in races. I have taken Small Block Chevy's over
280 degrees to the point on thermal lock-up.
Do you know what happens when you Over Heat a SBC? All the
CASTING sand left in the lower coolant gallies, and in the lower oil
gallies dislodges. This happens with about any brand of American Engine,
and some import engines.
Which is why ANY machine shop worth a penny HOT TANKS a block.
A Hot Tank is a tank filled with heated Costic Soda. A engine is lowered
in to it and taken to above 400 Degrees. This not only dislodges Sand
trapped in the engine from the casting process, it also removes any
baked in oil sludge, and galvanic corrosion.
If you want to see a good example of what some of my engines
go thru: http://www.smashcar.com
When it comes to finding out why stock engines die, Amature class races
tend to learn quickly.
Considering Im not a Heavy Deisel Mechanic by trade, I don't even have
a clue what is OEM on Semi's. I get goat roped in to helping out at a
fleet terminal from time to time. Every truck get under the cowling/hood
of has atleast 300,000 miles on it.
OEM stands for Orginal Equipiment Manufactor. In a OTR truck, how long
does the OEM filter the factory put in stay in for?
Im not a heavy Deisel Mechanic by Trade. I do some work on them, yet it
is not my primary means of income. Yet I do enough work on them to see
the same trucks in a service bay at a Fleet Terminal.
I started to service Heavy Deisels as a Hobby. Cars, light trucks, and
vans get boring after a while.
10K and changed out. 99% of the time with a new Fleetguard or Baldwin !
I don't know any drivers who use K&N in their OTR rigs. After reading
the tests about them being junk it makes sense why.
Read some of the following and then tell me how "great" K&N are.
Info - Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or
Engine Soon (SES) Light On as a Result of the Installation of an
Reusable, Excessively Oiled Air Filter #04-07-30-013 - (03/05/2004)
Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service
Soon (SES) Light On as a Result of the Installation of an Aftermarket
Excessively Oiled Air Filter 2004 and Prior Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2003-2004 HUMMER H2
First, Inspect the vehicle for a reusable aftermarket oiled air
DO NOT repair under warranty if concerns result from the use of a
reusable aftermarket oiled air filter.
The installation of an aftermarket reusable, oiled air filter may
a.. Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On
b.. Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or
c.. Engine drivability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop,
limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred
onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor causing contamination of the
a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from the MAF may be low and
any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check
for the presence of an aftermarket reusable, excessively oiled air
The MAF, GPS reading should be compared to a like vehicle with a OEM
box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the concern.
Transmission or engine drivability concerns that are the result of
the installation of an aftermarket reusable, excessively oiled air
are not considered to be warrantable repair items.
This part is from a gentleman who actually TESTED K&N in real world
Subj: K & N filters
John: If I wrote "subjective" I meant "objective".. I was responsible
for evaluating re-usable air filters for a major construction/mining
company that had hundreds of vehicles ranging from large earthmovers
to pick-up trucks and salesmen's cars. This study was embarked upon
due to the fact that we were spending upwards of $30,000 a MONTH on
air filters. Using them one time then throwing them away.. I initiated
the study in that I was convinced that a K&N type filter or oiled foam
would save us many dollars per year in filter savings, man hour
savings, and of course engines as these would filter dirt better than
paper. (yes, I had read the K&N ads and was a believer)
Representative test units were chosen to give us a broad spectrum from
cars right through large front end loaders. With each unit we had a
long history of oil analysis records so that changes would be
traceable. Unfortunately, for me, every single unit having alternative
re-usable air cleaners showed an immediate large jump in silicon (dirt)
with corresponding major increases in wear metals. In one extreme
case, a unit with a primary and secondary air cleaner, the secondary
(small paper element) clogged before even one day's test run could be
completed. This particular unit had a Cummins V-12 engine that had
paper / paper on one bank and K&N / paper on the other bank; two
completely independent induction systems. The conditions were EXACTLY
duplicated for each bank yet the K&N allowed so much dirt to pass
the small filter became clogged before lunch. The same outcome occurred
with oiled foams on this unit.
We discontinued the tests on the large pieces almost immediately but
continued with service trucks, foremen's vehicles, and my own company
car. Analysis results continued showing markedly increased wear rates
for all the vehicles, mine included. Test concluded, switched back to
paper/glass and all vehicles showed reduction back to near original
levels of both wear metals and dirt. I continued with the K&N on my
company car out of stubbornness and at 85,000 miles the Chevy 305 V-8
wheezed its last breath. The top end was sanded badly; bottom end was
just fine. End of test.
I must stress that EVERYONE involved in this test was hoping that
alternative filters would work as everyone was sick about pulling out
a perfectly good $85 air cleaner and throwing 4 of them away each week
So, I strongly suggest that depending upon an individual's long term
plan for their vehicles they simply run an oil analysis at least once
to see that the K&N or whatever alternative air filter is indeed
working IN THAT APPLICATION... It depends on a person's priorities. If
want performance then indeed the K&N is the way to go but at what
And no, I do not work for a paper or glass air filter manufacturing
company nor do I have any affiliation with anything directly or
indirectly that could benefit George Morrison as a result..
I planon keeping this truck for awhile so I'm going to go back to the
AC Delco air filter. Does it make sense to flush the engine oil to
remove sand and grit that may have accumulated in the engine already?
Or am I just wasting my time and money and possibly doing damage to my
I didn't mean to get into a air filter debate when I posted this
message. I am more interested in maximizing the performance of my 8.1L.
If anyone has some performance enhancing tips I sure would appreciate
I`ve been running a K&N for years.I`ve had several different sizes,on
several different vehicles and never had a problem.Rebuilt my last motor
that had a K&N for 62,000 miles and everything was good.I just wanted to
freshen up the motor!
Go here for a test of the aftermarket air filters
Then change back to a paper element.
Loose the hypertech and get a custom tune much more bang for the buck. If
you get the whipple you will want a tune anyway.
Forget about throttle spacers. I think this whole idea came from carburetor
spacers. They worked somewhat by insulating the carb and allowing more
runner distance for the fuel/air to mix. Throttle body has no fuel going
though it so no advantage by raising it.
Leave the MAF alone the screen smoothes the air flow for a more accurate
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