92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

Oct 31, 2011 2137 Replies

snipped-for-privacy@aci.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

It does, too. Very well.

Cost savings. That's the only reason why they don't have them.

What you need to do is remove them once a year, wash all the dirt and crud out of them and off the wheel well lip, let dry overnight, spray liberally with Rust Check or Krown, then reinstall.

Unfortunately, in your case, you will never get rid of your rust at this point, regardless of whether or not you have those guards.

Mine are totally rust-free.

The molding has a bead of white adhesive in the bottom of its "U" shape, similar to the stuff that holds your vinyl door sheets on. It sticks to the edge of the wheel well lip.

Just grab one end and pull slowly. It'll eventually peel off.

OK I exaggerate. Little things have died. More things than on my 1983 Accord I sold in 2000. First there was the rip in the fabric on the left edge of the drivers seat. A cancer developed in the foam below. I stitched in a tan patch which lasted for a couple of years. Then some of the dashboard lights (heater /defroster stuff) would only come on if I whacked the dash board. Now they don't (maybe a brief flicker). The heater intensity switch went and now I adjust the temp by monkeying under the dash a couple of time per/yr. Then the little plastic piece that keeps the drivers lap-belt available (below left side of drivers seat) broke. Now the key won't open the hatch (WD-40 hasn't helped) though the inside lever still works. The auto itself runs just fine (only 136K) and burns no oil. I've repaired some rust spots below the drivers side rear window. Some are forming on the back of the car (to be expected i guess). Anyone else have these problems on this model?



With pretty pictures, too!



Hopefully this will help others understand how this mysterious device works. Figuring this out was an education for *me*, that's for sure.



I'll add cross-reference links on other pages later tomorrow.



Go here:

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's a new entry at the bottom of the list, called"How does the EFI Main Relay work?"


tegger, that's truly awesome! may i timidly request a little more emphasis to the failure mode as that's how most people end up looking for this information? otherwise, that's a great job!

jim beam wrote in news:1111155423.a6b26432d793a9d052011ee718a04cce@teranews:

Good suggestion.

I can make a second page on What Happens When It Breaks. Coming soon...

Thanks for the input.

snipped-for-privacy@excite.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

Not specifically,but it sounds typical of aging autos.(or people!) That's why many people buy new(er) cars,because of all the little things that break as cars age.

And restoring a modern car is not like doing an older one,more parts are plastic,and no longer made nor available,and impossible to reproduce yourself.Plastic ages and deteriorates,becomes brittle and breaks.

I just bought a 92 Acura integra RS 2D hatch mint condition. The problem is when I shift up I hear a rattle and I was wondering is it easy to take off by my self or should I go to an auto shop and have them take it off or tighten it for me. I?m kind of new at this and I know that you guys might know more about this than me. Another question is if I do bring it to the autoshop how much would it cost?


liftordie21 wrote in news:1_505477 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:

There are a number of heat shields on the exhaust, and their prices vary from about $20 to $50 each. They rust off at the attaching bolts.

There is also one in front of and one behind the exhaust manifold. Replacing the rear one requires unbolting the manifold from the head, and the danger there is that one of the studs will break off, making for a major headache.

It's easy to determine which one is making noise. All you have to do for the ones underneath is to raise the car, get underneath and wiggle/tap them. The rattler will be very apparent.

If repair is required, this can be achieved several ways:

1) Pull them off. Cheapest, quickest way, but not the best. 2) Replace. Best, but most expensive way. 3) Clamp in place so they don't rattle. You can usually successfully use large hose clamps to this end.

As to how much it will cost? You'll have to find out exactly what's wrong first. It might not even be the heat shields.

Well I just picked up the TL after looking at a bunch of cars including those other two. As a complete package, the TL is the best.

Apparently there has been an issue with car dealerships adding hidden charges to inflate the standard DMV registration fees. There are a number of various charges that are suspected of inflating the various fees paid for newly purchased or leased cars. If you check out

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there is more information on this and what you can do about it. There is also a free case evaluation for those who suspect they might have been subject to this. I hope this may be of help to some.



kr0


Who thinks kr0 is really a lawyer in disguise trolling for business? Isn't there a shyster newsgroup there this would be appropriate?

Don't repost the spammer's entire message when complaining in public.

HTH. HAND.

New pages for the EFI Main Relay:



- Graphics updated for clarity

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- New page for what happens when it breaks

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- TSB page will be collated and sorted. Have started with Accord, will do others as I get time.

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Have also tried to deal with 404 errors ("Page Not Found...") with a generic redirect message. Since stuff's being pushed around a lot, I'm seeing 404s in my httpd logs from people clicking links they find in Usenet archives.



Apologies for any font problems in Internet Explorer. I'm using Mozilla's Composer to make the pages, and I hate how Composer fills up the html code with blizzards of font config tags, most of which cancel themselves out. Hopefully I can find a fix soon. Maybe I'll just hand-hack in Notepad, copying text over as needed. I was using Composer to try and save time. :(



Any comments or corrections are welcome. tegger (at) istop.com


Hello, Is there a way to turn off the seat belt warning that beeps every minute or so on the 2005 Acura TL ?



Thanks


Sure, buckle your seat belt :-)

Back in 2004 this was discussed and I think the answer was "no"

"Don Moore" wrote in news:vvW%d.6500$ snipped-for-privacy@fe2.columbus.rr.com:

Remove integrated control module and hand-tighten a wood screw against the beeper diaphragm to stop it from vibrating. That's what I did to my '91.

You can also cut a seat belt buckle off a belt from the wreckers and just plug that in instead. Just about any Honda should fit. This fix will turn off the light as well.

Hey I like that idea about the wrecked buckle. I'll look for one.

Thank You for the response

I recently bought a 91 Acura Legend L. I was looking for resources on the Internet that would tell me more about this model as well as about upkeep and modifications to pump up the horsepower. Any suggestions would be appreciated.



Robert in LA "[The Bill of Rights is] designed to protect individuals and minorities against the tyranny of the majority, but it's also designed to protect the people against bureaucracy, against the government." -- Judge Lawrence Tribe


Thanks TeGGer, your effort are very much appreciated.

FD

try..

legend.org

acura-legend.com

legendtuner.com

Did you get the 4 door or the 2dr?

J '88 L coupe '92 L coupe

against the tyranny of the majority, but it's also designed to protect the people against bureaucracy, against the government." -- Judge Lawrence Tribe

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