92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

Jim Yanik wrote in news:Xns966B71542D3A0jyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84:

Then how do you explain this?

Then I'm still looking for a definitive answer.

----- Original Message ----- From: "TeGGeR®" Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.honda,alt.autos.acura,alt.autos.honda Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 8:37 AM Subject: Re: Ignition updates to the Unofficial FAQ

That was how Jim got into the semantic trap to start with. The ECU supplies a low current ground to pin 4, which grounds an input on the IC, but the main ground - the one the coil current flows through - is the one shown in the lower right corner of the ignitor; the metal body of the ignitor itself. The current from pin 4 is undoubtedly in the range of 1 ma.

Mike

"Michael Pardee" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sedona.net:

Yes,the ECU signal is a normally HI,LO(ground)-to-enable signal.

Thanks!

What is the question? I am just coming into the thread and missed the start.

Leonard

"Leonard Caillouet" wrote in news:Xjloe.9430$%Z2.7651@lakeread08:

He wants someone to explain how a transistor controls collector-emitter current by altering the base-emitter current.And the old "which way does current flow,pos-to-neg,or the reverse?" debate.

Yes, that is what I meant, and that is what the data sheet shows.

I did some more digging, and you are right, it is not an opto-coupler. It is indeed a chip for controlling ignition coils. It is made by Telefunken / TEMIC, and they had a family of 3: U2225B is used when the input is from an inductive sensor, U2226B is intended for use with a microcontroller / microprocessor and U2227B is used when the chip is connected directly to an optical sensor. I have not had any luck finding the data sheet for this part.

I find it useful to think in terms of the equation

emitter current = base current + collector current

and consider that the E,B,&C are regions of the transistor with the base in the middle. The B is much smaller than the E & C and is doped to the opposite polarity. This creates two junctions that are essentially diodes (hence the term BJT, bipolar junction transistor). When the BE junction is forward biased (B more + than E for NPN, and the opposite for PNP transistors), the carriers in the E region diffuse into the B region, but only a small number can flow out of the B terminal relative to the number than the larger E region can provide. The rest flow into the C region (which is larger than the B region), assuming that the circuit is such that there is someplace for them to go. Thus a relatively small base current can control a much larger collector current.

As for the direction of current flow debate, it is largely context dependent. Once you understand the application and that electrons move from areas of excess (higher potential) to areas with relatively more holes (lower potential), the semantic questions are of less consequence.

Now this is a very simplified description of how a transistor works, but I think a correct one. Am I making sense, Jim. You can likely explain it all much better than I if you are the Jim that I have seen post on s.c.r. over the years. IIRC, your experience in electronics is substantial.

Leonard

"TeGGeR®" wrote: > Sterling wrote in > news:1_591733 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com: > > > > > > Here is what found out so far. > > > > 1 ? The two wire from distributor is connected directly to > the ECU > > with good continuity and no short > > > > 2 ? There is GND and +12 voltage present to the igniter and > the coil > > primary. > > 3 ? There is good continuity between the ECU and the igniter > via the > > blu/red wire > > 4 ? The crank angle sensor is directly connected to the ECU. > I don?t > > know how to test this one. > > > Unplug the 8-pin round connector from the distributor. > According to my > manual, there are six pins arranged in a 2x3 grid. The two > middle ones are > for the CYL/TDC/CRANK sensors. There ought to be 350 to 700 > ohms between > those two wires. Also check that there is continuity to ground > at each of > the two individually. > > > > 5 - There is good continuity on the single blue wire from > coil primary > > to the igniter. I don?t know what is the reason for this > wire. > > > Which side of the primary? If the plus side, that's the > trigger (old SW > terminal for Kettering points). If the negative, that's the > side that > carries the coil charging current. >

In the Sterling 827 SL , connector to the distributor has only two wire and they are conneted to the ECU. So what would be my next thing to check. If I remove the distributer from engine block with ignition on if I turn the rotor by hand, it sparks repeatedly. So why when the engine is turning the rotor there is only one spark?

Jim Yanik wrote in news:Xns966B7FE54E0Fjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84:

I've removed the innards of the igniter from the graphics and will add that body round later on, changing the yellow and orange lines around to suit.

Thanks very much to all.

Sterling wrote in news:1_594849 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:

Does the igniter ground through the distributor body? I think it does. I wonder if you've got some kind of short going on there.

Your latest report suggests a bad wire or connector somewhere, which was my original suspicion.

I think when you remove the distributor, you remove the igniter body ground. Since the coil still generates a spark, that suggests the igniter is still finding ground, and as far as I've been given to understand, should NOT ground if the distributor is removed, and you should therefore see NO spark since the igniter cannot switch.

I'm out of ideas, except to say that I think you really need to confirm the integrity of all LT wires and connectors in the circuit.

DO IT! AEM IS MUCH BETTER THAN STOCK

"gts" wrote in news:2sKpe.7486$ snipped-for-privacy@news20.bellglobal.com:

Why would a different air intake screw up the transmission? HP and torque gains will not be -that- big.

"gts" wrote in news:2sKpe.7486$ snipped-for-privacy@news20.bellglobal.com:

And your proof is...?

todd ullum todd ullum todd ullum todd ullum todd ullum todd ullum todd ullum todd ullum todd ullum todd ullum todd ullum todd ullum

My 94 Integra has the same thing. The clip isn't very strong, so you can pull the hose right off the air cleaner box. On my car, that hose attaches directly to the air filter itself, so it has to come off anyway to replace the filter.

-BBB

"jnarde" wrote: > That would be great! My email is snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net. > > Thanks!!

I?ve had the same issues after the recall work plus another issue. My recall work was done in the wintertime. The next morning, after sitting in my garage, I could hardly move the shift lever. The colder the stiffer. Now that hot weather is here that?s not an issue but wintertime will most likely bring that back. On the bucks slightly issue, It driving me nuts. I just went up my daughter stone driveway and the chatter, vibration could be felt on my bum. My dealer said nothing wrong with the trans. that they could find. The stiff shifter will be looked at during my winter visit to the dealer. At least I feel better knowing someone else is having the same issues. I?ll try the techron. I also am a secondary road driver. My mileage is 56,500

This is interesting... I have a 2001 CL-S and at around 1,500 to 2,000 rpm at 45mph I get a sort of bucking. The problem is, I can't take my eyes off the road to check what my tach gauge is doing. Some of the roads I use when I take shortcuts are windy, and some knuckleheads cross that double yellow... Lets say I go through underwear quickly.

"" wrote: > bertman wrote: > > "jnarde" wrote: > > > That would be great! My email is snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net. > > >

I?ve been driving my wife?s car more and I think it?s the transmission. The bucking occurs under load, light throttle when the transmission shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. I basically count the gears and it always occurs between 3rd and 4th. But here?s the catch, load and light throttle. If you accelerate hard or there is no load, it doesn?t happen. The Acura tech took it out with me for a test ride and he accelerated hard. It didn?t happen, surprise, surprise. He told me that the transmission problems occur when shifting. Since it doesn?t happen all the time, it?s hard to repeat when it counts. I spoke to the owner of a ?99 TL and she told her that she felt the same thing, but it was much worse. Acura replaced her transmission free of charge even though she had just crossed the 100K mark. Mine has 53K! I?ll go insane if I have to wait ?til 100K! Let?s hope it gets worse in a hurry or I can get it to repeat in front of the dealer. My wife loves the car so I would hate to sell it. One note: it never does it if I shift manually.

The heater fan/blower on my 92 Integra has totally stopped function. The blower resistor has been replaced but the blower still does not work. Checked for current reaching connector at Resistor - NONE; next, removed the fan control knob and checked for current in each connection point . Again NO current. I checked all fuses Inside and under hood) but see none which appear to be a blower fuse. Also all fuses seem have current. My thinking is problem is between the fan control know and ignition. A wiring diagram would help in checking out the circuits. Any ideas welcome as winter is fast approaching and the defrost is a must Thanks