My new to me 144k 325 which has been a joy to drive for 108 trouble
free miles needed lot's of cranking to start this morning. I crank in
10 sec tries and then rest. I guess it took about 5 tries. It was 48F
and wet. I don't normally depress the gas pedal when I crank but after
a few failed attempts I started a panicked pumping and holding the
pedal down etc. Finally started.
Ran fine most of the day then the "check engine" light came on. The
fluids were all good and the temp normal so I just drove on. The next
time I parked it wouldn't start, just cranked. Same deal, after a few
tries it starts and the "check engine" light goes off after a few
minutes of driving. Any idea on where to start with something like
I tried turning the key to position one and pumping the gas pedal 5
times but I couldn't start the self diagnostic mode so maybe my model
doesn't have it.
The inherited tech report from last August said it had the tank and
line cleaned out and the fuel pump replaced. A new battery was fitted
and then the car would stall at stop signs, starting normally
afterwards. No engine codes. Wire wiggling was found to solve the
problem but no one was sure what they did right. All the oil change
lights are on and some one covered them up with a sticker so we
wouldn't have to look at them. That's all I know.
Thanks as always.
Holding the pedal down really doesn't do much on EFI cars. Could be
the cold start circuit has a fault (coolant sensor would be my first
guess there) but I'm actually leaning towards a different diagnosis.
The check engine light is most likely the O2 sensor. You can get the
original part for around $80 or fit one for a 1990 Ford Mustang (5.0
litre) for around $30. Replacement is easy and straight forward.
88 and earlier used an older mnotronic version that didn't include the
self diagnostic mode. Some have been fitted with newer ECUs but the
stock ECU was a no go.
Check the reference sensor and it's wiring (passenger side near the
harmonic balancer) forfaults. If this wire is broken (but still making
contact) the car may run but stall out or fail to start due to
vibration. Also, check the cap and rotor and the condition of the
plugs. If the cap, rotor and plugs are good and you have spark when
the engine is refusing to start, that will give us a direction to go.
I'm not sure about Motronic, but pumping the pedal on some EFI systems
pulses the injectors beyond the 'normal' as a richer mixture is needed for
quick engine response to demand. Could be this is inhibited during
A wide open throttle when cranking can get the engine going if it's
flooded - but don't pump obviously. Standard proceeder on some E39s which
have been started from cold then near immediately stopped - like moving
out of a garage and stopping to close the door, etc.
*One nice thing about egotists: they don't talk about other people.
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW
On Fri, 12 Oct 2007 18:40:41 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
If you depress the pedal some more after it feels like it's at the
bottom of it's throw you can feel a switch clicking. Any idea what
that does? Is there a cold start proceedure for this car? Thank you,
I'm waiting for the Bentley manual.
On Fri, 12 Oct 2007 12:28:54 -0400, Michael Yeager
This is located just below the header meets the exhaust pipe?
I googled for parts and prices but there's a zillion connectors with
the 3 wire walker "direct replacement" being common to most sites at
$50 for the Ford and $125 for the BMW. You're right, the picture looks
the same for both.
Found this for resetting the oil change light and dash panel
batteries. The diagnostic connector is round and located on top
towards the radiator?
Thanks, out of curiosity, what's the oil bath thing on the drivers
side near the air intake? It seems to be just a reservoir fed from
some type of crankcase breather. The fluid in it looks awful.
Today the ABS light came on for about 10 minutes and went off again.
The check light started flashing but it drove ok.
When I had a passenger in the car there was a rumbling and vibration
from the rear of the car or driveline which went away when they got
The cruise control stopped working for a while for no reason I could
see. Then it worked fine next time I started the car. Maybe I
inadvertently disabled it. Everyday a new adventure.
I would get the codes downloaded before I changed anything. Although the
most likely cause is a faulty O2 sensor, there
are several other reasons for the check engine light to come on.
This light indicates that the engine is sending more polution to the outside
world. This happens when the mixture is not optimum, but
the range of mixtures for good operation of the engine is quite broad.
Thus, it can easily be that the light will be on, the engine will be
running well, but it is also sending more of the bad products of combustion
that is allowed by the regulations.
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