That type shouldn't be allowed to own any tools. They generally do
more damage than good. If they do get something to work, it rarely lasts
because they have no clue what because the problem.
I've seen too many vehicles that some idiot cut and patched back
together. One stepvan I bought years ago had a damaged harness and I
talked them down almost $1000 on the price. It was coming off lease
from a fleet, and they wanted to fix it themselves. i pointed out that
if they could repair it properly, it wouldn't be in that condition.
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.
The 40 amp fuse is barely accessible (as can be seen from the photos).
It's not even easy to pull the fuse & even harder to replace it.
So, all I was saying was that it's actually rather difficult to insert
test leads into the empty fuse #F76 fuse holder.
I'd wager it 'can' be done - it's just going to take an hour or so
to get the leads in place.
I'd be very happy to see pictures of the test leads in situ
because I personally tried (and succeeded) in getting the 40
amp blower motor fuse F76 out and back in, but I wouldn't
want to do it more than once in my life.
From memory, here's what I did:
. I moved the passenger front seat as far back as I could
. I lowered the passenger front seat back as far back as it goes
. I removed the ignition key and disconnected the battery negative lead
. I removed the panel from the bottom of the glovebox
. I removed the Phillips screw and panel off to the passenger left kneecap
. I lay upside down on the flattened passenger seat, head in the footwell
. I located the general module III (GMIII)
. With my arms bent wildly arms over my head, I disconnected harness connectors
. The first enigmatic connector was the white connector X332
. The next diabolical connector was the small black X253
. And the last puzzling connector was the large black X254
. By now, I could slightly see the yellow 40 & red 50 amp fuses F76 & F77
. With a flathead 1/8" screwdriver, I lifted the yellow fuse F76 up & out
. That took about an hour or three.
. Putting the fuse back was even harder than removing it
Actually that looks good and should work just fine.
That type of probe is self contained, meaning it does
not depend on the DMM input impedance for proper match.
BUt 80 Amps is kind of small I think, I have a AC/DC clamp
that does 800 amps, but to do low current readings of less than 1
amp becomes a problem with AC. DC I can zero it.
I don't think Fluke makes much in the way of current probes for DC with
appreciable sensitivity. The i1010 is sensitive enough for this sort of
job, but not for a lot of other things you might want. They do make some
fancy intelligent probes but they're all more expensive than just buying
a Fluke clamp meter like the 365.
That said, I have a cheapo Extech 380947 and it's not built like the Fluke
but it's sensitive enough to detect small ground leakage currents.
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
way to understate - those things are insanely expensive. otoh, there's
almost no competing product, so they have the ability to leverage pricing.
that's why i settled for the esi unit. not as good as the fluke, but
has similar sensitivity in a package robust enough for automotive use.
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