The check engine light comes on after 10-15 minutes of driving and there seems to be no engine problems. While not for the faint of heart, I even shut off the engine while going down the road and restarted the engine to have the light come back on after another 10 minutes of driving.
Even after swapping out the engine due to a different problem, the light still comes on.
Any ideas?
Try reading the engine codes for a starter!
No, not until you tell us what diagnostic code is set concurrent with the check engine light.
Matt
"Matt Whiting" wrote: > dcsharpsr wrote: > > > The check engine light comes on after 10-15 minutes of > driving and > > there seems to be no engine problems. While not for the > faint of > > heart, I even shut off the engine while going down the road > and > > restarted the engine to have the light come back on after > another 10 > > minutes of driving. > > > > Even after swapping out the engine due to a different > problem, the > > light still comes on. > > > > Any ideas? > > No, not until you tell us what diagnostic code is set > concurrent with > the check engine light. > > > Matt
I?m not a mechanic and don?t have the equipment to read these codes. And, by the time I take it to a mechanic, they charge $70 for a diagnostics test to read the codes to find a $10 part is at fault. Is there a way to read these codes without such equipment? Without being able to read the codes, is there some general ideas of some of the things that only would cause the Check Engine light to come on after having driven down the road for at least ten minutes that I could check? One person mentioned that a bad gas cap could cause it and I did replace it to no avail. I do remember that the problem started shortly after replacing the fuel pump in the gas tank.
Got the ignition key to the vehicle? Then you have the equipment to read the codes.
To check the computer codes:
With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, leaving it "ON". Do not go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.
Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn on, then go off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored. For instance, if it flashes:
flash flash flash
flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash
flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash
Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a
55 (five and five). 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, "No codes stored. Check the codes and report what you find."Daniel J. Stern" wrote: > On Tue, 7 Jun 2005, dcsharpsr wrote: > > > I?m not a mechanic and don?t have the equipment to read > these codes. > > Got the ignition key to the vehicle? Then you have the > equipment to read > the codes. > > To check the computer codes: > > With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, > leaving it "ON". Do not > go to "start", just "on" during this procedure. > > Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn > on, then go > off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have > been stored. > For instance, if it flashes: > > flash flash flash > > flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash > > flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash > flash > > Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and > five) and a > 55 (five and five). 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, > "No codes > stored. Check the codes and report what you find.
I never knew you could do that! I did what you said and the following codes were presented in order...
12 32 14 24 11 22 55It will be interesting to know the translation...thanks for all your help!
Start of codes
EGR system fault
MAP sensor voltage out of range
Throttle Position Sensor voltage out of range (over 4.96v)
No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (faulty distributor pickup, if so equipped) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor signal.
Coolant temperature sensor signal out of range.
End of codes
Yep, I'd say you've got some problems with your van...
"Daniel J. Stern" wrote: > On Fri, 10 Jun 2005, dcsharpsr wrote: > > > 12 > > Start of codes > > > 32 > > EGR system fault > > > 14 > > MAP sensor voltage out of range > > > 24 > > Throttle Position Sensor voltage out of range (over 4.96v) > > > 11 > > No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (faulty > distributor > pickup, if so equipped) OR timing belt skipped one or more > teeth; OR loss > of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor signal. > > > 22 > > Coolant temperature sensor signal out of range. > > > 55 > > End of codes > > Yep, I'd say you've got some problems with your van...
Wow! I have a few things to look at to say the least. I know why the egr fault as the replacement engine (1992) did not have the egr hookup that my 1994 did. I?ll give this to my son and see if he knows what to do to resolve these errors.
Thanks to all for all the help!! This is a great forum!!!
I had the check engine light come on with mine as well. No codes for MONTHS. It was really ticking me off. Finally, I was getting occasional spit-back and los of power.
I took it to my trusted shop. After a few minutes of tinkering, it turned out to be the O2 sensor. I never did get a code, but all the tech got from the O2 sensor was a square wave. This sqaure wave averages out to a 50% signal. Sort of a "best guess". But the signal did not change or track with varying engine conditions.
As soon as the new sensor was in, he showed me how the signal returned to "normal" varying with conditions like opening the throttle.
The check engine light has not come on since. :)
A VERY quick, and relatively >The check engine light comes on after 10-15 minutes of driving and
"" wrote: > I had the check engine light come on with mine as well. No > codes for > MONTHS. It was really ticking me off. Finally, I was getting > occasional spit-back and los of power. > > I took it to my trusted shop. After a few minutes of > tinkering, it > turned out to be the O2 sensor. I never did get a code, but > all the > tech got from the O2 sensor was a square wave. This sqaure > wave > averages out to a 50% signal. Sort of a "best guess". But the > signal > did not change or track with varying engine conditions. > > As soon as the new sensor was in, he showed me how the signal > returned > to "normal" varying with conditions like opening the throttle. > > The check engine light has not come on since. :) > > A VERY quick, and relatively inexpensive fix. :)) > > On 6 Jun 2005 10:35:38 -0400, dcsharpsr > wrote: > > >The check engine light comes on after 10-15 minutes of > driving and > >there seems to be no engine problems. While not for the faint > of > >heart, I even shut off the engine while going down the road > and > >restarted the engine to have the light come back on after > another 10 > >minutes of driving. > >
BTW...the car failed NOx (too high) and obviously they don?t read the computers codes on some earlier cars otherwise they would have seen at least a dozen on mine. I have to find out how to reset the codes to get a fresh report.
Emmissions testing here NEVER reads the "codes" from the engine's computer. They don't care. What they DO care about is the reading taken from the "sniffer" that they put up the tail pipe.
They also care that all emmision system equipment that was "stock" is there and functinoing.
And yes, they check the gas cap too.
My repair shop has a computer that talks to the computer in the Van. Their computer can "clear" the codes. This is important since you usually want to know what codes have appeared recently.
Many codes will appear, but will not always cause the "check engine" light to come on.
NOx failed? wow. Never even came close on that one.
best of luck.
Yes they do care, OBD2. 1996 vehicles and up. OBD2 system include a monitor called readiness codes. That indicates that all OBD2 tests have been performed and passed. Some states still do the standard tailpipe test on all years but will start the OBD2 test soon
Oh just great! So now you have to pay for the test, AND you have to pay BEFORE the test to have someone do the test that says that you are ready for the test!
What a f'n joke. Typical government.
If the damn money wasn't coming out of my pocket then it would be laughable.
Huh? In Our state, if your OBD2 readiness monitor has not completed because of some reason such as a fault code was recently cleared and you go to take the test...... they will tell you to drive the car a few days with a few warm up cycles and then bring it back. Should only be one charge
In my Province, you pay EVERY TIME you take the test - pass or fail.
First test charge is $47, and re-test is $23.
But they don't read ODB2 (yet). If there is extra money in it, and they figure this out, then they will start doing it.
If you fail, then you MUST have your car repaired at a "certified" facility. Of course, the "certification" costs the shop $$$$, and that is passed on to you in higher repair costs as well. And you MUST bring the repair bill with you for the re-test.
Sounds like our system could use an over-haul. But as long as there is money in it for the government, that wont happen any time soon.
:(
"" wrote: > In my Province, you pay EVERY TIME you take the test - pass or > fail. > > First test charge is $47, and re-test is $23. > > But they don't read ODB2 (yet). If there is extra money in it, > and > they figure this out, then they will start doing it. > > If you fail, then you MUST have your car repaired at a > "certified" > facility. Of course, the "certification" costs the shop $$$$, > and that > is passed on to you in higher repair costs as well. And you > MUST bring > the repair bill with you for the re-test. > > Sounds like our system could use an over-haul. But as long as > there is > money in it for the government, that wont happen any time > soon. > > :( > > On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 17:59:21 -0400, "maxpower" > > wrote: > > >
I have a ?98 Grand Voyager Expresso, 3.3 L. My check engine light is on, but when I try the procedure above to illuminate the codes, I get no response.
Three questions:
Thanks in advance.
gc
The key on-off-on-off-on cycle doesn't work on OBD2 cars such as your '98, only on OBD1 Mopars.
It's on for a reason. Most faults that turn on the Check Engine light also reduce gas mileage and increase exhaust emissions. Fix the problem.
Take a center punch and place the narrow end directly against the glass over the letter 'g' in the word 'engine' (check ENGINE soon). With a 16 to 24 oz. framing hammer, aggressively strike the broad end of the center punch. The light should then go out. If not, strike the center punch repeatedly until the light goes out :-)
AL
Check the EGR valve
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.