1995 concord not charging battery

sorry but that link is not working

Before doing that I have a suggestion - you have a bad ground.

What I suspect is happening is that the computer's ground is at a different voltage level than the ground of the alternator and/or the battery. If there is a resistance between the computer ground and the battery/alternator ground it will make the computer think that the alternator output is lower than it really is, thus the computer will try to correct this by raising the charging voltage.

An external regulator will of course do the same thing if it's grounded where the computer is.

check all grounds from battery to frame, alternator to engine, engine to frame, and computer to frame.

Ted

No problem, I just didn't want others replying as if I had actually said that...

No surprise there, that alternator can put out a good solid 50-60 amps at idle, and around 100 amps at full tilt. You need a true fusible link, or a fuse rated at more like 110-120 amps.

Since the car is working fine otherwise, I suspect that yours blew for some random reason (weak link to start with, bad connection at the link causing it to overheat, etc.) I think you'll be fine once you get the link in place, but it is POSSIBLE that it blew because your regulator is indeed bad. The way to check this is to replace the link, CHARGE THE BATTERY with a trickle charger so that the alternator won't be trying to recharge a partially-drained battery, and then start the engine and monitor the no-load battery voltage (ac off, lights off, everything electrical off except that which is required to run the engine). If it sails up over 15 volts in a few minutes and stays there, you probably have a bad regulator. If it stabilizes between 13.5 and 14.something (I forget the spec) you should be fine.

You guys are awesome :) i will do.

I'm sick as a dog, had a very bad week and it is nice out. I'm diging in and getting to the bottom of this problem TODAY.

if all fails i found the regulator i need for $50. And they have to order the connector just as Daniel suspected.

Chrysler admitted that they cannot provide fusible links and have no idea what the guys in the shop do to replace them (read in that they use a peice of wire.) i think I'll put a 100 amp fuse in there. I am uncomfortable with only a straight wire.

EEK! NO! It is *VERY* dangerous to replace fuselink wire with regular wire. The fuselink is there for a very good reason. DO NOT defeat this fuse protection!

Replacing a fuselink with a fuse can be done, but ONLY if you know exactly what you're doing and select the correct type of fuse. It must be a slow-blow fuse, not a regular one -- these are harder to find than conventional fuses. It must also be of the correct amperage rating, which requires knowing the output capacity of your alternator. Much better to put in a replacement fuselink. It must be the same length as the original fuselink, and the same gauge size. The gauge size will be marked on the fuselink insulation. If it is not or it is illegible, the rule is that the fuselink wire must be 4 gauge sizes smaller than the wire it is protecting. If the wire being protected is a #10 wire, the fuselink must be #18, for instance. Fuselink wire is fuselink wire, it is not regular wire. NAPA will sell you Belden brand fuselink wire. If one of their prefab, cut to length fuselinks is not suitable for your application, they'll sell you the proper gauge fuselink wire on a spool, and you can cut your own. Fuselinks must be soldered in place. Use heat shrink tubing to cover the repair.

DS

EUREKA!!! i found the problem. while tracing the main wire, I found the fusable link wire. they had it under the washer bottle and it was looped back on itself and tie wraped. i guess they had nicked the insulation at one of the bends because it was all green and at teh last there was only two strands or so left.

it was about 6 inches long and 2 inches are gone now. i'm off to NAPA to get some... Thanks for all the help.

Well, at least something went right today....

BTW, I checked the wiring diagram, that fuse link should be a 12 ga.

All fixed. Thanks to all who help me and put up with my sheer ignorance. I learned a lot from you guys and about this car. This knowledge will be put to good use later. I'm glad it wasn't February when this happened. I think i will install a voltmeter....