Intrepid Coolant Problem

That's the black plastic coolant outlet housing. I didn't have mine fail like that Keith. But mine was starting to weep around the horizontal seam (probably where yours came apart) and I decided to replace it before it got any worse. I can imagine that it would have failed like yours did if I hadn't noticed it weeping and just let it go.

The air intake system and the upper intake manifold have to be removed in order to replace that part. I would think they'd charge between 1 and

2 hours labour plus the part. I did my own and it took me about 2 hours due to inexperience (and no manual). If I recall, the plastic housing was something ridiculous like $90 or $100.

Phil Grimsby, > I have a 98 Intrepid 2.7.

That is called the "water outlet housing" in DC parlance (some people mistakenly refer to it as the thermostat housing - even at least one place in the FSM erroneously refers to it as the thermostat housing because it is where the thermostat traditionally is on most engines - but not on this one - your thermostat is way down low on the driver's side of the engine - nowhere near this thing).

Very poor design - a metal insert in a plastic housing with considerable heat - known for leaking, and for twisting out of the plastic housing if someone gets a little overzealous in tightening it when bleeding the cooling system of air. There is more labor than you'd think involved in replacement because the entire intake manifold will have to be removed (at least partially - enough to raise the manifold up an inch or two) just to get at two of the four screws that hold the housing onto the engine.

Note: You can get just the housing (P/N 4792329) and the o-ring (sold as separate item - P/N 4792307AB) *OR* you can get the "water outlet connector w/tube" (P/N 4663723AC). You do not need the "water outlet connector w/tube" - that comes with the housing and a bunch of extra items that do not wear out and require extra labor to put them in. To save unnecessary parts and labor expense, just get the housing itself and the o-ring. But, unfortunately the intake manifold will still have to come off.

You might want to consider having them order the lower intake manifold-to-head-gaskets (P/N 4663760 - 6 required) ahead of time too - you may not need them if the old ones seal OK, but there is a chance that the old ones won't seal properly. They don't cost that much, so probably worth getting and having them put in to cut your risks of a problem with the intake not sealing.

OH - and make sure they flush the system out and put the G-05 coolant in.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

"Housing only" lists at $63 (around $52 at discount dealers). (O-ring is around $3-4.)

$71 list ($58 at discount dealers) if you got it "w/tube", which is unnecessary and just makes for extra work.

Looking at the prices now, the housing with tube is not that much more - comes with o-ring too. For the little difference in price, I'd get the "w/tube" but only install the housing and the o-ring - doesn't hurt to have the other parts on hand in case they're needed (but they probably won't be).

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Sounds like you replaced one too at some point Bill.

Is the Zerex G-05 exactly the same as the Mopar long life ? I'll tell ya, the Mopar Long Life was actually 2 bucks a gallon cheaper from the dealer than the Zerex was at NAPA. I ended up with the Mopar.

Phil

Bill Putney wrote:

I'm in Canada. The final price with tax upon tax upon tax came out to around 100 bucks (with the O ring I believe).

Phil

Yep. I let it seep for about 2 years, then got nervous about it doing what it did on Keith's (I felt like the fish in the blender wondering when it would be turned on). I actually had a dealer parts guy warn me that he'd had people get a brand new housing and the insert twisted out of the housing just from being opened the first time. He told me that if I got it from him and it did that, that he would not refund my money or replace the part. What the hell kind of deal is that!!!!!!??????

Yep.

I like the Zerex or the Ford brand of G-05 because it has a distinct bright yellow color (MOPAR brand is reddish orange). I never want it to be confused with DexCool?. Ford had theirs colored that way for that very reason.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Yeah - you guys have that medical system to support.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Interesting. So after you replace the housing (and tube), are you and Keith saying that there will no longer be a bleeder for the cooling system, or is it located to another component?

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

OK - thanks! So, since that tube runs front to back, is the bleeder now at the rear of the engine instead of the front?

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')