Hi All
I've got a MK1 Austin Heally Sprite with a Morris Minor 1100 engine and a Maxi distributor. I can't get it started althought it used to go. Is there a correct orientaton of the rotor arm for #1 TDC? The distributer can go on in two ways with it pointing about 2:00 O'clock or 4:00 O'clock. The #1 TDC is clearly marked on the flywheel with 5 and 10 degree advance marks. Is there a correct position for #1 plug lead in the cap?
Thanks in advance
Stephen
Very simple when you know how first get #1 cylinder at just before (5 degrees) tdc the on compression stroke --- make sure its the compression stroke for #1 -- both inlet and exhaust valves on that cylinder should be closed and you should feel the compression (if in doubt either take all the plugs out except n#1 or whip the rocker cover off). Points should be about to open and the rotor arm should point towards #1 plug lead.
Generally the vac advance capsule on the distributer should be around the
4 O'clock postion as this allow best access and range of adjustment. Make sure the the Maxi distributer you are sing is the type with 2 screws holding the base plate to the body as the early single screw type are very unreliable. Also don't overtighten the clamp bolt at the bas of the distributer as this damages the distributer body.Remember to switch the iginition off and disconnect the coil leads when turning an engine by hand !!
The TDC position can be one full revolution out as regards the firing stroke on number one cylinder, so first you have to make sure it's correct. Do this by either removing the rocker cover and checking both the valves on no 1 are closed, or by removing the plug and putting a finger or thumb over the plug hole and turning the engine by hand until you feel the compression.
Once you're happy it's correct, the rotor arm in the distributor should point at the appropriate terminal in the dizzy cap.
However, IIRC, the drive dogs on an A Series dizzy are offset, so can only go in one way. It's possible the drive has been removed and replaced incorrectly - this is easily rectified. If you'd like instructions on the correct replacement of the drive I've got them somewhere.
Still no joy - can I confirm that #1 is the front and #4 is the back? Does it matter what the orientation of the distributor body is, or can it be anyway rotated as long as it points to #1 when the flywheel marker is in the right place and the valves on #4 are changing over from inlet to exhaust? Do you think I need a strobe? The engine has been "re-manufactured" and is very difficult to turn by hand. It would be easier if I could use the starter.
Stephen
Yup.
It makes no difference. Although some might foul the vacuum advance unit if they were positioned wrongly, or make the points more difficult to adjust.
I'd start off with the static timing right first - then check it with a strobe.
It might be easier to move the engine by jacking up one rear wheel and putting it in top gear, then turning the wheel by hand. But a long bar on the crank pulley bolt should shift it easily enough even when tight.
I have the answer - it was the petrol!
Drained it out and put new in and it worked perfectly.
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