97 neon died, won't crank over

I was driving and I heard a puttering noise. I lost some of my acceleration, and when I pulled over and turned the car off, It wouldn't restart. The battery is fine (it worked in another car). I can hear the solonoid kicking on, but the engine does not crank over. I took the spark plugs out, and it still wouldn't crank over. Also, the two spark plugs on the driver's side were covered in oil, but the other two were dry. Is it possible that the timing belt is to blame? If so, howcan I prove it? Why won't the engine crank over with the spark plugs out if it is the timing belt? What causes the oild to get down on the spark plugs?

Reply to
benreinke
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Clarifications: 1) The oil is on the white part of the spark plugs so I doubt this is related.

2) When you turn the ingnition key the dome light dims.
Reply to
benreinke

First of all I think the oil in the spark plug tube would be from the gasket leaking from the valve cover. Take off the valve cover and you will know what i'm talking about.Check too make sure you are getting good volts main relays. then check compression at each cylinder if o.k. next try checking fuel pressure it should be 42-48 psi then die down to about 32-37 after that.I got a question. When cranking it over do or did you hear knocking sounds? Even ticking sounds? These are just some suggestions hope I've helped out some. Also you are getting spark right? If not try the old faithful camshaft sensor the wires or it may be bad. Good luck.

Reply to
JabberJaw36

Additional info: 1) Removed starter, bench tested OK. Put back in car. Turn key you hear it engage but it doesn't turn over the engine. 2) Can't check compresion because engine will not crank over. 3) Loosened alternator belt and power stearing belt. Tried to move Crank shaft with breaker bar but would not move in either direction.

Seems like the engine has siezed up. What is the best way to diagnose the possibility of a crankshaft repair verses a camshaft/head/valve repair. Owners manual says not to turn with wrench to avoid valve damage.

Also, would like to remove timing belt cover but can't seem to remove without removing crank shaft pulley. Is there another way? The timing belt look OK is it possible is jumped and now we have damage to valves? Car has 105,000 miles on it. What's the best alternative: Rbuilt engine, rebuilt head (if that is this issue), used engine or simply rebuild it myslef?

Reply to
benreinke

Additional Info: Removed valve cover and all valve rods seem to be pressing against each of the rocker arms like they should be. Each rocker arm is attached to the lash adjuster like it should be. All the springs look OK. The cam shaft is not broken. Car actually has 114,000 miles on it, more than I thought. I was going to remove the timing belt and then gently rotate each cam and the crank shaft individually to determine if the issue is in the top of the engine or the bottom but the repair manual says: Caution do not turn the crank shaft or cam shaft/s after the timing belt has been removed as this will damamage the valves from contact with the pistons. Do not try to turn the crank shaft with the cam shaft sproket bolts and do not rotate the crank shaft counter clockwise.

So, how do I locate the root cause of why I can't turn the engine over using a breaker bar or starter. Keep in mind I have the spark plugs out.

Reply to
benreinke

at this point you might have to pull the oil pan and look for bad a bad rod or bearing or something .......but make sure you've exhausted all else first.

Reply to
robs440

I'm not sure if I have exhausted all other possibilities. I was posting this in the hope that someone might know of an alternative I hadn't considered. Right now I can't turn the engine over with a wrench even though the spark plugs are all out so I'm assuming it is seized. Just hoping I could find another issue but not sure what to check.

Reply to
benreinke

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