Just bought a 04' Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab from a local dealership. I
drive away from the lot and after about 25 minutes of driving notice
the check engine light has come on. Next day I bring it to the
dealership they check it out and tell me that because the truck has an
aftermarket dual exhaust it is causing the light to come on. Being
that I am somewhat uneducated when it comes to vehicles I am hoping to
get a second opinion from someone here. Does this sound like a likely
scenario and what can be done, if anything, to get the light to go out
short of changing my exhaust system?
Well, if the exhaust system has been tampered with....
Still I believe you may have a possible cause for action against the
selling dealer. Warranty of merchantibility if nothing else. What you have
right now won't pass an emissions inspection unless they fudge it and
Stop calling and stop talking. Immediately put your complaint in writing
and send it certified to the dealership, attn: General Manager, also
immediately file a complaint with your local Better Business Bureau. Do
this immediately. Don't threaten to do it; do it right now to protect your
Handling it over the phone or in person does not protect your rights.
Putting your complaint in writing and sending it CERTIFIED MAIL, Return
Receipt Requested will protect your rights. (Make a copy of the letter for
your own file too).
of course. thats why i said i did not disagree. but my sister works for the
local branch of the BBB and until she took that job and i talked with her as
to what all her job entails, i did not realize exactly how limited they are.
basically they are a mediator, kind of a peace maker.
i was just trying to let people know that they really can only file the
compalint and let people checking into a business that said business has had
"x" number of complaints.
Writing the letter and sending it certified to the dealership general mgr.
will probably also succeed in really pissing off the dealer, because now
you've just thrown the first "official" punch. He may have little recourse
except to address your problem to your satisfaction or take the vehicle
back and refund your money (less a std. mileage allowance for any miles
you've put on it). At this point his cheapest "out" would be to eat the
cost to put it back stock, because if he can't sell it to you he also
can't sell it to anyone else other than take it to the auction and still
having to make you "whole" on the deal. I doubt his margin on YOUR deal
was so slim that he wouldn't still be ahead just to sub it out to a
muffler shop and get you out of his hair.
OK, please help me with a different question. I've got a 95 1500 with a 5.3L
engine. 88K miles. Occasionally, the check engine light comes on. Sometimes
when I start it and sometimes when it's been running. it doesn't stay on.
Before a go to the local stealer, can anyone tell me the different reasons
the light may come on? It got a new cat installed at about 65K miles (still
under the warranty). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Thanks Tom for that link. Sorry about the liter conversion - I knew it was a
318. The process of retrieving the codes worked. I got:
31: EVAP Solenoid Circuit - Short or open in the EVAP solenoid circuit.
Check for loose, broken, or shorted wire in the charcoal canister purge
solenoid wiring and connectors.
37: Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or Trans temp sensor too high or
low - Open or short in CKT wiring or connectors. Voltage out of range at
transmission temperature sensor input. From the 1995 TRUCK (Ram) manuals:
the trailer towing package includes a transmission coolant temp sensor while
the standard package doesn't. The fault code detection system is probably
the same for both models. This could cause the low (no) voltage
indication....no sensor to send any voltage.
So if this is a intermittent problem, would it appear this is just a loose
wire or could this be something much worse? Hate going to the stealer here.
When I took it in for a 60K check up, I mistakenly forgot to ask what it
would cost. When they called me 5 hours later, I went to pick it up and they
gave me a bill for $1200+. They did not fix anything, that was just for the
routine maintenance (replace fluids, spark plugs, etc.) After I picked
myself off the floor, went to the bank for a personal loan, I vowed never to
go back. I'd like to be able to fix this myself if possible. Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks.
Okay - it's the code 31 that's setting the check engine light. The code 37
won't light it. I used to have a code 37 on my '95 V10 all the time... the
big cooling system kept the trans fluid cool enough that it would trip the
code. If you don't notice your torque converter clutch mis-behaving, I
wouldn't worry about it.
As for the evap. solenoid, well - check the wiring, and test the solenoid
for proper resistance (should be >100ohms). If it isn't, replace the
geez i feel so stupid. i looked last night for the charcoal canister under
the hood and could not find it. i'm used to a round coffee can like canister
and i did not see anything like that under the hood. is it hidden? or does
it look different from canisters i'm used to seeing? i feel like a fool even
asking this question.
If that is the case, then they should replace it for you free of charge or
take the truck back. I would have give you the code and then explain to you
exactly how this dual exhaust could possibly cause this problem.
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
Let's start by finding out what the code is. Cycle the ignition switch
three times (ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON) - do not turn it to START - just to ON when
all the dash lights light up. When you turn it on the final 3rd time, the
odometer will display one (or more) OBD-II "P" codes (like P0455, P0336,
etc.) Copy these down, and post them.
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