Bad Window Motor??

Go to a GM dealer and look up the bulletins on this. I recall a GM service bulletin for a revised switch on these. First place to go.

The window motor is likely beyond your ability if you need to ask :). LOL. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z

Thanks. I am planning a trip to my local Pontiac dealer tomorrow morning. I hope it is the switch and not the motor. The switch won't be too bad to change.

((^: The only time I have had to go inside a door was to try take out the lock cylinder of my Dad's '78(?) bonneville. My sister had managed to break off the key inside the lock. Of course, Dad didn't have the right tool to get that big spring retaining clip off. My forearms looked like hamburger by the time I was done. Now, Dad didn't drink and didn't tolerate cussing, specially in mixed company. And he and my sister had to stay there and suypervise the whole time.

((^:

Tom

Yep, bad window motor. It will take at least a 12 pack and enough foul language to make a hardened criminal blush to fix it. :-\

I ended up letting a mechanic at the local dealership do all the sweating and cussing. ((^:

I was ready to get the part and do it myself until I found out that the motor is riveted in. I just don't have access to the facilities or tools to be doing riveting.

Tom

Window parts that are riveted are done with pop rivets in cars. Not peen over air craft rivets. You need a drill, a sharp bit, a pop rivet gun, and rivets. That's it.

No extra expensive tools required, no special facilities required.

The only bad part about servicing anything inside a door is sharp edges. Vehicle manufactures do not see the need to dress the edges, or fold the metal over. So cuts and scrapes come pretty much as standard. Charles

There's no need to redo it with rivets---in fact, most GM shop manuals state to use U clips/bolts as replacements for the rivets.

Rivets are done for expediency when assembling the car. Bolts and nuts are for serviceability.

Nowadays many parts of the car are sent to the factoy as JIT (Just in Time) items straight from the vendor as drop in modules.

Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z

Call me 'Olde School'. If it came with a rivet, and the metal is not weak, then A rivet I put back.

When I replace the odd broken bolt in a vehicle door, I do it with a Grade 8 nut and bolt. Good hardware doesn't cost that much more around here.

I know about JIT parts. The whole concept is to cut down on wear housing a supply,where it could get damaged, or you could get left with excess inventory due to mid run production changes. Yet it's not that safe an idea with labor unions that can and will strike with out notice. Charles

Charles:

The real reason for JIT is cost and inventory dollars on the books. Less time you own it and more you use it, the less it costs :). That's why it's really done (in addition to the other reasons you stated).

As for bolts versus rivets, it's debatable. LOL. It makes it easier for service later on if there are good bolts in there. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z