Two weeks ago i had camshaft position sensor and synchronizer replaced. Now the car is acting the same way it did before i had it replaced but its not the above again. When the car is cool it runs fine as soon as it is warmed up about 25 minutes of driving it acts up it cuts out-when i push on the gas the rpms go up but it acts like it is not getting gas any suggestions or questions u have that could better help u make suggestions-I am all ears!
first things I'd check, fuel pressure and cat converter (after warm)
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Thank u the converter has been checked I was also wondering about the fuel pump(pressure) and the coolant sensor! The mechanic is putting a new filter on just in case because it has never been done its original filter and also the coolant sensor. Any other ideas would help so keep them coming I appreciate it and I will update u on what it was!
Don't forget an extra credit card. It sounds like the mechanic is replacing everything without figuring out the problem first.
Jeff
lmfao
bwhahahahahahaha
you are funny
hurc ast
tell him to maker sure cam sensor is syconized
you need a special tool i hope he has it i bet he eyeballed it lmfao the shaft also wears prolly what caused the sensor to go in first place
remove sensor make sure no magnets are moving around broken in side the put it on using SPECIFIED tool there are 2 kinds one is not your application
your problem sounds like sensor is out of sync
hurc ast
Actually the sensor and the synchronizer where bad car was align with the special tool and i saw the tool it was for the 3.0 which is mine. The synchronizer was chewed to hell I don't get that but anyways that is common with theses cars. I researched that. Ran fine for two weeks on long trips and all now it just started this. Only cost 350 for that because he let me get my own parts and gave me my old ones. He runs the obdII and nothing comes up I will let u all know that i am not being taken at all. Ford dealership wanted well over 650 for the above. So I asked for helpful comments not snide remarks thanks anyways!
so what you are saying is he charges 350 an hour
lmfao
hurc ast
no actually sensor was 30 and change synchronizer was 150.00 and change and tow was 150 towed me over an hour so I think i made out pretty well
so remove the cap any magnets floating around ?
hurc ast
The old synchronizer was chewed to hell this one no we checked all together clean as a whistle so now where do i go no codes come up
The old synchronizer was chewed to hell this one no we checked all together clean as a whistle so now where do i go no codes come up
Anyother ideas no codes coming up still runs like crap after 20-30 minutes? Mechanic says tranny i say no way tranny will not make the car stall. Fuel pump?
your original post said rmp goes up, car wont go faster? right? If you are correct in your discription-----trans slipping.
That would be correct if the car did not also stall and die. Tranny slipping does not make the car shut off.
I think we need a better description of your problem. If it does it EVERY time its warmed up, exactly what it does, ect. If it does it every time its warm it should be easy to find. Maybe you need a new mechanic? One that will diagnose the car, not just guess and throw parts at it based on your description. The way to start the diagnosis is drive the car.
just as a side note: I've done quite a few cam sensors on Taurus' and they all ran fine, just had the CEL on.
Ok better description
1.) It does it when it has been driven about 20-30 minutes first it starts to run like it is not firing right then it starts to lose power as in no fuel, rpms go up if i pull over and turn it off then on again in a matter of 2 or 3 minutes it then runs fine for a little bit but again starts doing the same thing I have never had a problem with the tranny it shifts up and down great never a slip or anything 2.)I had sensor and synchronizer replaced definately the problem the hulls effects switch( i think thats how it is spelled) was torn and mangled3.) Just had the fuel filter replaced because it was original and regardless I am sure it needed to be replaced. Cheap and easy job.
4.) Before all the problems started every once in a while when i would go to pass someone going about 60 it would shutter no rpms went up just shutter. Let off the gas and lightly step on the gas problem was resolved.
Please explain. Manifold pressure going UP meand engine is under load. Slipping tranny means engine sees no load.
Sounds more like a blocked exhaust
You NEED a fuel pressure guage installed for a test run. See if the fuel pressure stays up or drops when the engine stutters. Sounds like a classic case of a blocked pre-filter in the tank. (usually due to dirt in the tank - rust, etc) When the pump has sucked enough crap to the "sock" the engine can't get enough fuel any more. Shut it off and the crap falls off the bottom of the sock and you are good to go for a few more miles.
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