Hi guys. I've got a 66 mustang. 289, 600cfm Carter carb. The problem I'm
having is that the car starts up ok and runs great for about 5 - 10 minutes.
After it warms up, it will still idle fine at a stop, but when you give it
gas, it acts like it wants to die for a second until you get above and
beyond that rpm range. This will get progressivly worse if you keep driving
it to the point to where when you accelerate it dies.
If you let the car sit for an hour or two, it will start back up and drive
fine again for 5 - 10 minutes and the process repeats.
I've got the points set properly, the timing is advanced by about 3 degrees,
but the distributor WILL NOT move to let me adjust it back. I'm not super
mechanically inclined, but I can replace basic parts and try a few things if
someone has some ideas. Trying to avoid having to take it to a shop as most
of the mechanics seem to be interested in only working on new cars they can
plug a computer into. :(
Thanks in advance!
Some of the older fords had a plastic filter on the end of the fuel tank
pickup. They were known for pluging after a while. gasahol agaravated
this problem. Try removing the gas cap, then the inlet hose at the fuel
pump, then use a air pressure hose and blow back through the tank. If
your lucky it will blow the filter off the pickup. other wise you will
have to drive it untill it is acting up severly and pull the top of the
carb and check the fuel level. If it is a fuel pump or supply problem it
will be low. (or just check the fuel pressure as you are driveing.) KB
the carburetor has an accelerater pump on the front. when you call for
quick power by depressing the gas pedal, it squirts an extra shot of gas
into the carburetor to stop hesitation.
it is replacable from the outside front of the card.
The 66 289 Fords used a combination vacuum and centrifugal advance for the
timing. First take a good look at the diaphragm in the vacuum advance. It
may be leaking causing the timing to be off. Cold engines cannot handle the
advance that warm engines can. Second, use a good timing light and establish
that the timing is changing as the engine warms up. The inability of the
distributor to rotate is cause for concern. Have you tried pulling it yet?
Another less likely possibility: pinhole in the fuel line between the
tank and the pump. I've seen this before; at idle fuel delivery was
adequate, but at increasing throttle, the pinhole starts to feed air into
the line, decreasing fuel volume and rendering the pump unable to pump.
This didn't cause an off idle stumble in my case, just fuel starvation after
opening the throttle.
The off idle stumble sounds like dirty air or fuel filters, too lean of
an idle set, or a fault in the accelerator pump. The idle mix and accel
pump shouldn't cause stalling after established part throttle operation,
though. How's the float level? Vacuum leaks?
Also, I would guess that 3~ is too little initial spark lead, but I'm
hard pressed to believe that alone would cause these troubles. Sometimes
distributors get pretty gunked up and stuck; I've had to use PBlaster or
kerosene to get them loose before.
On Sat, 25 Oct 2003 13:36:39 -0600, Wes Fisher wrote:
First off you need to set the timing. Then check the dwell. Points can
appear to be gapped right but the dwell can be way off. Increasing point gap
decreases dwell and vice versa. Dwell meters are inexpensive. Also check the
timing advance. Once you have the ignition operating properly, start looking
at the fuel system. I'm not that familiar with Carter carbs, but they must
have a website. If it's anything like Holley's website it will have lots of
info on your carb. Be sure your choke isn't sticking. Running fine when cold
but not when warm is a symptom of a choke not opening fully. And if the car
was running fine until you changed something, whatever you changed is
probably the problem. (or something you moved/removed during a repair didn't
get back just right.)
Every day is a good day- it's just that some are better than others.
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