Ok, you asked for it.
And so on.
Hey folks, I started this whole thread and did not mean to cause flames. I got
pretty much what I wanted from it. The tests referenced here are not
necessarily independent. I was trying to find a source of independent testing
not reported on a vendor web site to compare the products, namely Mobile1 and
Amsoil for both oil and filter products. I have not seen this yet.
I did learn the following:
1. Amsoil is sold through a pyrmid structure. This is a negative to me.
2. There are very satisfied Amsoil and Mobile1 users.
3. There is no clear concensus that synthetic is better in real world benefits
than non-synthetic, however lab tests and logic tend to support this.
I have used Castrol GTX for decades with no problems, and I kept nearly every
car well over 100K miles, and some to 200K. I recently switched to Mobile1 in
one car, and I am planning a switch for 2 new cars to something synthetic.
Whether there is a real world benefit for me or not is to be determined.
Thanks again for your comments and insights.
Flames? Where? If there are any I'm certainly not offended by them.
Believe me I'd love to see some sort of "oil shootout" test, but I
guess the best you can do is get the info that's out there and make
your own decisions.
Yeah I'm not a fan of MLM's myself. This is why I buy my Amsoil
direct, there's no middle-man to directly support the pyramid.
And I'm a satisfied Amsoil user, and there's lots of others. Ask
around in the Taurus Car Club, there were (at least at one point)
several satisified Amsoil users who actually did their own oil
analyses, with no problems.
Yep. Just ask people who've had their engines not get ruined after
their oil pump blew during a race (thanks to using synthetics) :-D
Look, my Father-in-law sells this stuff and uses it too. However, I use
Mobil 1. It's a whole lot cheaper and is readily available in a wide
variety of SAE designations. I would strongly advise not using Amsoil. Not
that it's a bad product. It's not. It's just that there are equal products
at a better price. As to their filters? If they were so great the
manufacturers would use them too. Use the part recommended by the automaker
and change them often.
We love Amsoil customers that push there oil changes to 12,000 miles. I have
already done a few motors because of this. Just because there is limioted
viscosity breakdown in a synthetic after 10-12000 miles does not mean the
oil is still clean and free of contaminates. Mostly what we see is people
don't even check the level for 6-7000-8000 and by then its done the damage.
Oh so by that logic, Goodyear tires are better than who-flung-dung
tires, but auto mfr's ALWAYS put goodyear tires on their cars right??
Oh and to clarify, I've been using (not selling, I'm not a dealer, or
a shill, just my own personal experiences) Amsoil filters and Series
2000 0W-30 oil for years in my car with no problems. Oil filter
change every 6 mo, oil+filter change every 12 mo. And let me tell
you, if nothing else, my winter starts are 100x better than with old
dino oil (as in, the car usually won't start in the winter with dino
oil, get it?) And I was using valvoline (dino) before the change as
Man, the tone of your response is really snotty. I'm sorry if I touched a
nerve..that wasn't my point. Look folks, for the record. I lived in Montana
for eight years. During that time I used Amsoil most of the time. My cold
starts were great, even at -50; which happened several times. I ran the oil
in my crankcase, the gear lube in the tranny and rear end and I used the
grease in my bearings. MY gas mileage was about 1-2 mpg better and on those
really cold mornings, moving the shift lever was way easier. All of that
being said, I'm now twenty years older and the world has changed. There are
other synthetics on the market that are cheaper. So, I recommend using them
instead. As far as those extended change intervals, they're not for me. I
change between 4,000 and 5,000, more frequently if I am in the desert a lot.
Oil get dirty. Filters don't get all of it. Changing oil is cheap
insurance...unless you use very expensive oil. Then it's more expensive
insurance but it's still cheaper than a breakdown. Use good oil, syn or
dino. Change it often. Buy what's on sale as long as it's SAE rated. That's
starting is 100 times better, any data that says it is 100 times,
not 99 times or 101 times. As in other posts you are stating
opinion and conjecture as fact. Fact is, any lube oil with a
synthetic base oil, or dino oil with the correct amount of pour
point depressant will start better in cold weather.
I would definitely agree with not using Amsoil. Apparently most of
their oils haven't been approved by the API. Look for the little
circular symbol on the bottles saying "API Service ..." and showing
the SAE viscosity. It ain't there.
Run away! Run away!
My mech. installed the 50 weight oil in my 5.0 crown vic. motor saying it
had very large oil ports and could handle the
higher viscosity oil. I'm hearing the Castrol Syntec is newest and more
advanced tech. on the synthetics and will be
changing over next oil change. Best part is supposed "cleaning out" of
engine if you do initial change 3-4x miles after
changeover from conv. oil. My car now runs 190 or lower (also flushed
cooling system) and oil is already very black
after 3x miles so it must work! Watch for multiple drain plugs on some of
the larger Ford motors. Failure to open both
can leave a quart of the old stuff in there!
Lovin my '89 "Blue Kangaroo"!
High Temperature/High Shear (ASTM D-4683)
The High Temperature/High Shear Test measures a lubricant's viscosity under
severe high temperature and shear conditions that resemble highly-loaded
journal bearings in fired internal combustion engines. In order to prevent
bearing wear, it is important for a lubricant to maintain its protective
under severe operating conditions. The minimum High Temperature/High Shear
viscosity for a 30 weight oil is 2.9 cP. As shown in the graph, AMSOIL
Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil surpasses this minimum standard and displayed the
highest High Temperature/High Shear viscosity in the group.
The superior viscosity retention of AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil in
the face of severe temperature and shear conditions allows it to provide
continuous, unsurpassed protection for engine bearings, extending equipment
life and preventing wear.
Quaker State PeakPerformance----------------------3.37
Castrol GTX Drive Hard --------------------------------3.35
Valvoline Syn Power ---------------------------------3.30
Mobil 1 Super Syn Power -------------------------3.30
Mobil Drive Clean -----------------------------3.20
Pennzoil with Purebase ----------------3.16
Quaker State Synthetic --------------3.15
Pennzoil Synthetic -------------------3.14
Castrol Syntec ----------------------3.13
March 2003 test results
To respond via e-mail, simply take the, "REMOVEXX" out of my return e-mail
This is meaningless. A fluid film bearing needs a film of fluid. Period.
Since we don't know the starting viscosity of the oils tested the end
results are meaningless again. the 10W-30 is just the promised viscosity not
the actual product viscosity. You many well want a thin but stable fluid
film to obtain max power and fuel economy. Higher viscosity alone is not the
You will never convince the Amsoil crowd with facts. They consist of two
groups - the first are the distributors who are in the business to make
from an over-priced product by making exaggerated claims (note the
misleading scale of the graph above), the second group consists of those
who have been taken in by the first group and will never admit that they
have overpaid for an average product.
Exactly right. Then there are their cousins who pay $ 20.00 a quart for the
Slick50 type oil additive products.
At least in the "old days" the STP oil additive advertised by Richard Petty
was only a coule of bucks. (Maybe thats $ 20 in "todays" money..HAHAHA)
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