Will switching from Synthetic to Dyno oil harm my engine?

I have a 99 Altima with 66,000 miles on it now. I've been using Mobil 1 since 40,000 miles and to be frank I dont see the cost benifits to use mobil
1 on a "economical" car. Is it safe to switch back to dyno oil or will it harm my engine?
thanks
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elmo wrote:

There is NEVER a "cost benifit" to using sythetic oil. I hope you haven't been trying to go 15,000 between changes? Switching back and forth isn't a good idea IMHO but if I was going to switch back, I'd change to dino oil and then change it again in about 1000 miles to help "flush out" whatever was left and then change every 3000 there after.
--

Steve

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Thanks, no I've been changing oil every 6000 miles.
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elmo wrote:

No problem. I feel it's safer to do it this way in case the additive packages don't play well together and of course if you had a turbo car etc, my advice would be different. For this car in your application, dino oil is a better solution. You could probably skip the extra change at 1000 miles if $20 is going to get in you way. I'm always amazed at people trying to save $20 on the service of a $20,000 car....
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Steve

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Steve T wrote:

Sure there's a cost benefit of using a "real" synthetic oil under certain conditions. If it's freezing (think Minnesota) it should help with startup. If it's ridiculously hot, it can help if the cooling system fails. Synthetic is excellent for forced induction engines.
It's also getting to the point where certain manufacturers effectively mandate the use of synthetic oils. BMW, Porsche, and Mercedes-Benz use Valvoline or Mobil 1 synthetics from the factory. Some high performance engines (Corvettes and Vipers) come with synthetic from the factory.
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Steve T wrote:

There is a cost benefit if your time is worth something. I have been using AMSOIL for over 20 years in all types of vehicles and typically do 10,000 mile oil changes - about almost twice what I would be doing with dino oil. When I recently sold my Hardbody with 120k miles, the buyers jaw dropped when he opened the oil fill on the valve cover as it looked brand new inside. He was a mechanic BTW. None of my vehicles have ever had any problems with any lubricated part. Granted, it is possible that changing dino oil at those intervals *may* achieve the same results with less piece of mind (unless you own a V6 Toyota sludg monster anyhow)
Even if it cost me an extra $20 for the oil change, the fact that I only have to mess with it 1/2 as much is well worth it to me.
From your post, you appear to be on the 3000 mile oil change camp. This is definitely an artifact form the 60's and 70's where engine tolerances sucked and oil was not nearly as good as it is today and is completely unecessary in today's vehicles (again, unless you have a Toyota V6).
Regards,
--
Rob Munach, PE
Excel Engineering
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Steve T wrote:

The facts don't agree with your opinion: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html
It's perfectly OK to switch back and forth every oil chaage, if that turns you on.
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On Mon, 20 Dec 2004, Steve T wrote:

...perhaps not for your cars in your driving conditions. Problem with a word like "never" is that all it takes is one counterexample to render your statement false.

The engine is not a toilet. It does not need to be "flushed".
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Yes, it's perfectly safe to switch back (and forth again) if you want. The oils are fully compatible with each other. If you change oil at the usual too often intervals there is no real benefit to synthetic except for really cold places if you have trouble cranking on regular oil. -- Elbridge Gerry, of Massachusetts:
"What, sir, is the use of militia? It is to prevent the establishment of a standing army, the bane of liberty. . . Whenever Government means to invade the rights and liberties of the people, they always attempt to destroy the militia, in order to raise a standing army upon its ruins." -- Debate, U.S. House of Representatives, August 17, 1789
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Maybe it's just that us AZ guys think alike, but the answer is "yes" - there are no risks at all with switching from synthetic to dino oil. In older cars, especially those with an uncertain oil change history or lots of hours in hot environments (like Arizona, for example), switching from dino to synthetic can dissolve deposits that old and hardened seals were depending on. The affected seals can then leak - the same applies to using "engine flush" products, as I found out the hard way when I was young and more foolish.
Synthetic and dino are totally compatable, and blends are available. Some of my friends use one quart of synthetic when they change their oil, and they probably get most of the benefits of synthetic at a much lower price. In my mind, the main value in synthetic is the much higher detergency. If oil changes are kept up with dino oil, the engine itself stays clean inside, but PCV passages and throttle bodies build up deposits that can be expected to cause trouble eventually. In my 85 turbo Volvo, the turbo is still going strong at 230K miles because of the regular oil changes, but I've had the throttle body off for cleaning several times. I always have to use a drill bit to clean the vacuum nipples when I wait more than a year or two. Last year the actual hoses in the crankcase ventilation system plugged up with deposits (these are like 3/8" hoses!) and I had to replace them. Lost 3 quarts of oil blown all over the engine when that happened on the freeway - about a pint a minute. The Volvo gurus tell me these things don't happen with synthetic.
Mike
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On Mon, 20 Dec 2004, Michael Pardee wrote:

This nonsense has been around since the advent of synthetic auto engine oil three decades ago. It wasn't true then, and it still isn't.

The only place synthetic oils have "higher detergency" is...in your mind.
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On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 13:02:47 -0500, "Daniel J. Stern"

I use Castrol or Valvoline dino in my cars, change oil and filter ( Motorcraft Fl400-S) every 90 days or 3,000 miles, and have never had an engine problem related to oil. n e v e r.
Go figure. If you want to spend the extra $ on synthetic, it's your money, be my guest.
Lg
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SNIP

Dino oil is, indeed, good. Nobody will deny it. But what other folks here are trying to say is that a good quality synthetic oil is soooooo muuuuuuuuch better. ;-) JP
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I wave my left arm in a semicircle eight times every hour on the hour between 8AM and 8PM weekdays (10AM and 12AM weekends) and have never been attacked by a pink crocodile. n e v e r. Go figure.
Correlation does not imply causation.

Well, let's do the math, shall we?
Castrol or Valvoline's at about $2.10/qt including tax. Mobil-1's at about $5.10/qt including tax. An FL400S filter is about $4.20 including tax.
Let's say your car takes 5 quarts and you want to drive it for 60,000 miles.
If you're changing dino oil every 3k miles, that's 20 filters and 100 quarts, so $210 worth of oil and $84 worth of filters. Total oil costs in 60k miles, assuming the engine consumes none: $294.
If you're changing Mobil-1 every 9k miles, that's 6 filters and 30 quarts, so $153 worth of oil and $25.20 worth of filters. Total oil costs in 60k miles, assuming the engine consumes none: $178.20.
"Extra money" spent on synthetic: one hundred fifteen undollars and eighty uncents.
-DS
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Dan, if I read your post correctly (and I didn't check the math), isn't the Mobil-1 regimen *cheaper* when compared to the dino regimen?
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Shall we read it slowly?
one hundred fifteen undollars....
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Yes...$115 more for the Dino regimen OR $115 less for the Mobil-1 regimen. I already got that.
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This is a pretty manufactured comparison. As a point of fact, I have never paid more than $1.00 per quart of dino oil. I wait until it goes on sale. Dan is probably only used to buying stuff at places like NAPA and doesen't realize that the Checkers/Kragen/Schucks people regularly discount dino oil, sometimes down to 49 cents a quart with rebate.
I would be happy to post scans of my last 5-6 cash register receipts that clearly show oil purchases at below $1.00 a quart if someone here wants to continue the rediculous claim that dino oil costs $2.10 a quart. And this is from this year since I buy as many cases as I can at the $1.00 a quart cost when it does go on sale. And this is name brand Chevron or Havoline oil also.
By contrast it is -extremely- rare for synthetic oil to be discounted - and when it is discounted, invariably it is only via rebate - and the fine print only allows 1 rebate per year per household. And also it isn't discounted much.
Ted
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What if there is no Checkers/Kragen/Schucks stores in the vacinity? I only recognize the name from seeing it on TV. We've got NAPA and CarQuest and a few department stores. The cheapest I've seen the house brand (Valvoline) at NAPA and CarQuest is $.99 a quart.

Don't know about the Chevron but the Havoline, yeesh, what tar! And when I say tar, I mean experience from being inside engines that has had it's oil changed religiously every 3K miles and the owners have used Havoline exclusively since the vehicle was new.

NAPA has Mobil 1 on sale for the month of December for $3.99 a quart, Walmart almost always has 5 quart jugs for (IIRC) $19.88, sometime less.
It would seem for some people, it would take just as much manufacturing to achieve the price point you claim as it would for Daniel's claim.
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FWIW, that is the message I get from my gear-head younger brother. He tells me it leaves crusty carbon that just won't dissolve with anything throughout engines.
Mike
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