On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 08:04:16 -0000, "steve"
|don't know the specific torque settings for your particular wheels, but yes
|alloy rims should have a higher torque setting that regular steel rims.
Thanks. I was wondering if I would _crack_ the alloy wheels by
torquing them to that specification. After doing extensive google
research, I still could not find a -definitive- answer, so thought I
would ask here.
All the lug nuts on all 4 tires were WAY loose. I couldn't believe
it. I hadn't checked this car's lug nuts since I had purchased it,
but it was on my To Do list, so I went out in the garage tonight to
check. Glad I did.
I made a little text file of some answers I found in google groups.
I'll post it here and now for anybody interested in this topic. Seems
that alloy wheels need to be REtorqued after they are mounted, and
given a chance to *settle* for a few hundred miles. Here is a
sampling of what I found.:
BTW these posts are all in reference to *alloy* wheels like mine:
And, it should be noted, the rotor warping is most likely a result
of uneven lug nut torque which can be prevented. This doesn't mean
the lug nuts were not properly torqued when the wheel was put on
last, but that the alloy wheels are very stiff and thus after being
removed and replaced even the slightest amount of "settling in" will
leave the lug nuts torqued VERY unevenly.
My wife's 92 SL2 had no problems with warping for several years, and
then one time, over a period of a month after getting new tires,
both front rotors warped. Nothing changed about the way the car was
being used -- just that the wheels had been removed and replaced.
We replaced the rotors, and the next time we went there (to rotate
tires) I watched a tech hand-torque the lugs to 100 ft-lbs. The guy
at the shop said that with alloy wheels I should come back in a few
days to retorque, so several days later I checked the torque
(myself) and found a seemingly random variation between 25 and 80
ft-lbs. I re-torqued back to spec, and have continued to do so
several days after any wheel gets re-installed, and have had no
problems with warping since then.
We observed a couple years ago on this newsgroup that the vast
majority of rotor warping occurred with alloy wheels. The steel
wheels are much less stiff, and thus the equivalent amount of
settling in results in only a small decrease in torque. Of course
improper torquing can still result in rotor warping with steel wheels,
but this is less common.
Even if you have the beveled or 'acorn' ones, anti seize is a good
when putting steel lugs against aluminium if just for the
I just saw an aluminum rim that was seized to the back brake drum on a
Cherokee. When the 10 lb 'convincer' Finally managed to bounce the
enough to knock it off, a 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/8 thick triangle was left
'welded' to the hub ring! Had to chip it out to get the drums off.
Aluminum doesn't like steel, but threads are steel on steel and need
just be clean.
I called back and the dealer tells me I was supposed to have been told
to tighten these at intervals. I was never told.
Every trailer I've ever had came with a manual that stated that the
wheel lug nuts should be checked periodically, but always after the
miles, as even a correctly torqued lug nut can loosen if the wheel
in a little. With a new trailer, I always check the lug nuts at 50
200 miles, and at each fuel stop. After the trailer has been on a few
I just check them before and after each trip.
I don't know what you paid for your trailer, but it seems like the
would find a new wheel, repair the stud, and get you back on the road
But let this be a lesson. Don't count on the dealer to do anything, or
anything right. Do your homework and double check all the important