Iam planning to do a front brake replacement job for my 95 Escort. It
has a front disk and rear drum brakes. I will not touch the rear drum
I hear very small squeling sound when stoping from the front. I got a
set of brake pads from AZ. Do I need new brake shims, M and W Springs
or will be ok to use the old ones. I haven't done this before. This is
my first break job. I have 102K miles and like to get all the parts
before I start the work. Also I have a Brake Lube, which I think
applied on the backside of the brake pads (hardest side).
go back to auto zone and return the pads before you use them.. then go
to pep boys and buy some Raybestoes Brake Pads(much better and cost
more, but then you get what you pay for).. i put some on the 93 taurus
and they been there for about 6 yrs now and no problems with them....
if you need new rotors you can get some pretty good ones from auto zone
for about $25 to $35 each, Auto zone does not turn rotors anymore..
probably because most rotors are too thin to turn anyway...... if you
dont need the new rotors take some med grade sandpaper(the wet sand kind
) and go all around the rotor scratching it in a circle about 2 to 3
inches all around the surface both front and back of the rotor.. then
get some High temp. brake grease for the caliper pins so you can
regrease them after you clean the brake parts off with some brake
cleaner(spray cans, get two cans, one for each wheel), put bucket under
the wheel and let the crap just fall into the bucket.. use a scrub brush
on it also to get the hard stuff to move off.... and buy a can of
STOP SQUEEl to spray on the back of the Disc( the part that does NOT
touch the rotor... this will absorbe alot of the vibration of the brake
pads that cause the squeeling that we hear from brakes.................
and when you finished dont go hard on the brakes for a while until the
settle in and start to wear..(its called breaking them in)....
the calipers have to shoved back in when you remove the disc... i use a
6 inch C -clamp and i use a plastic turkey baster(looks like a large eye
dropper) from Walgreens, cost about $2.00,, used to remove most of the
brake fluid out of the master cyl. as the fluid will rise when you start
to push the caliper piston back in with the C- clamp....
hope this helps... on, dont reuse the old fluid you took out, just throw
Are Raybestos really that much better? The Aug. 1999 Consumer Reports
said that all the pads they had tested performed the same -- original
equipment, NAPA (United), Pep Boys, AutoZone (Albany or Performance
Friction), and Car Quest (unknown). AZ charged me $25 for lifetimes,
while Pep Boys and Checker (probably also Raybestos) wanted $30.
Would you know why some car makers recommend that substance while
others, like Nissan, tell us to instead smear high-temperature grease
on both sides of each shim? I never used grease before, but so far,
so good with it.
i would put grease on the back of any shims.. i would use the anti
squeel stuff on it.. i would only put grease on the pins that you hold
the caliper on with... that allows the caliper to float from side ot
side and you dont get too much pressure on only one side of the
rotor(thus both pads are doing the work of stopping the car)....
I've got a 1997 truck (pre-Frontier), and these AutoZone/Albany pads
are working OK, but it's only been a few hundred miles. What kind of
problems did you have with non-factory pads? I plan to do the rear
Drums I wouldn't worry. The pads drove me crazy (short trip). They
would work for awhile then start to rattle. Eventually the whole front
would shake when you hit the brakes. This included turning the rotors
before installing. Something about the compatibility of the rotor
material and the pads.
A friend of mine owned a brake repair shop and would go ballistic at the
mention of this problem. Maybe the problems have been addressed (my
Nissan was an 89) or don't apply to the truck. At least if you start
having a problem you know what to do. Don't wait for the rotors to get
Here is an article you might be interested in taking a look at since this is
your first time. Nothing earth shattering in there, but it might help to
build your confidence level a little to read through it.
If you click on "select another article" you will find some more brake
articles that might be of interest to you. One talks about the calipers,
one talks about a brake system flush.
email@example.com (sams) wrote in message
I did my Nissan brakes recently and found that there's no substitute
for a factory or Mitchell manual because Haynes has washed-out photos
instead of clearly drawn diagrams, and both Haynes and Chilton's give
confusing instructions (easy to apply the wrong torque).
I bought my pads from AutoZone and got Albany brand (their others are
Bendix), but I passed when the parts counter guy tried to hustle a
couple of tiny packets of brake grease for $0.99 apiece and claimed
that it didn't attact dust the way regular grease did <-- I'm not
kiddin'. Instead I paid a whopping $0.31 extra for a 16 oz tub of
Sta-Lube alumina complex disk brake grease from Pep Boys because it
doesn't drip in heat or wash off from water, and I needed to do the
wheel bearings anyway.
I tried to keep the brake parts in original order when I removed them
and even made a sketch to note the orientations of things like spring
clips and shims because I was told that it was easy to sometimes
reassemble brakes exactly backwards. All the instructions I've seen
for a few different makes of cars indicated that the shims were to be
reused, but while some companies wanted the shims to be coated with
sticky anti-squeal glue only where they faced the caliper, others,
including Nissan, wanted both sides of each shim to be greased, and
one other company didn't mention any coatings.
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