Checking fuel pressure with no tools is tricky, but checking for spark
shouldn't be. All you really need is to find a spark plug (doesn't matter
what kind, as long as it's in half-decent shape), pull the most easily
accessible plug wire, stick that spare plug in there, put it on anything
metallic (lie the intake manifold), and briefly crank the engine while
watching for spark (you'll need an assistant).
I can see the failure-prone TFI attached to the distributor in the 'center'
photo. It even seems to be the original one. If it is, it's a miracle that
it made it intact from 1988 to 2003 - I had two cars with those, and their
TFI's failed much sooner than that.
Here is a simple way of diagnosing a bit further if you see no spark: get a
12V test light (probably just a dollar or two in an auto store). Look at the
connector on the top of ignition coil (that's the black thing a bit to the
left of center foreground in your 'center' photo, which also has the high
voltage wire running to the distributor). There are two wires going into it;
red and green with some stripe. Turn the key on and check for 12V on the red
wire (poke through the insulation with something sharp, if you can't get a
contact otherwise). Chances are that there will be voltage there. If not,
you may have a problem with the ignition switch. If you find that the red
wire has 12V on it, move your test light to the green one, and have your
assistant crank the engine. The light should be pulsing as the engine is
being cranked. If it's steady on or (much less likely) there is no light at
all, the TFI is probably bad. The reason that there should be blinking is
that the TFI is supposed to briefly ground that wire before each firing -
that's what completes the coil's primary circuit. The TFI usually fails
'open', meaning that you'll just get steady battery voltage at both ends of
the coil when that happens.
Replacing the TFI is rather straighforward, but you will need a special
socket wrench for its screws (about $5 in the auto store), because they are
deeply recessed and there is very little clearance. First unplug the
multi-pin connector (just pull hard on the wires and it should slide out),
then take the screws out and carefully SLIDE the TFI DOWN, until it
disengages from the distributor. Don't pull it away, because you will break
the connector to the pickup inside the distributor. When re-installing a new
one, apply thermal compound to the mating surface (comes with the unit). It
looks from the photo that the coolant nipple or the sensor which is screwed
into it may be obstructing one of the TFI screws. Hopefully not, but it may
take freeing the distributor and turning it a bit to gain access. If so,
make sure to carefully mark it's location by scratching a line on the body
and the top of the engine, and return it to the same exact position, so that
timing is not altered.
If this was not applicable to Sharon's no-start problem, at least I hope
that it helps somebody with a car of that vintage. By the way, there was a
class action suit a while ago, and I think that Ford will reimburse you for
the cost of the TFI (and perhaps even the labor) if it had to be replaced.