The parts people tell me it is the same switch still.
But it really is not that bad, as long as you fix it before it stops turning and
has to be towed and drilled out.
The design flaw is that the locking bar that the tumblers push to latch the
cylinder, for some insane reason was not put above or below the tumblers.
Instead it was put at 90 degrees to the tunblers.
This means the tiny tumbler springs, push on the tumblers, have to somehow coax
the locking bar into the right position, by pushing at it from the side, with
the angled portion of a notch in the tumbler.
If this large locking bar is at all canted, it will bind up, and not allow this
tiny force to move it into the right position.
So for now the ONLY solution is to either get a third party lock that is
supposed to be better, or leave out all the tumblers next time.
You don't really need them anyway, because there is a catch that will not let
the cylinder turn at all unless there is some key inserted, and the electronic
transducer will not let the car start until the right key is inserted.