1988 F-250 power windows problem

In one day, my driver's side window went from perfectly operating to not going up at all. Definitely sounds like a stripped cog. The truck "only" has 130K on it, is there an easily replaceable cog, or does the unit itself have to be replaced. Is this a known problem (i.e. they all fail before

200K, so don't go the junkyard route), or am I just lucky?
Reply to
Ken Finney
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I have a 89 F-250 with 160k and my motor is giving me trouble too. My Bronco motor started to go around 150k or so. I can get a new one from a parts store for around $70 and the junk yard wanted $25 or $30 so I plan use a new one.

Jimmy

Reply to
James Gillespie

wow!! you got 130k miles out of a power window motor?? they are designed to only last 40-50 k miles

Reply to
Falcoon

There are two parts to this problem. Just fixed my power windows on my 89

250 on both sides a few months ago. The motor is probably fine but there is a plastic gear that incorporates the metal gear that engages the linear gear connected to the window. I bought 2 gears from the Ford dealer at about $20+ apiece.

First the Ford dealer told me you had to buy the whole motor assembly but you don't, you can buy just the gear. They have to research the parts book. Once you have the right parts, the fix is fairly straight forward.

Doug

Reply to
dslemke

Does it make any noise at all when you press the switch? If not the brushes in the motor might not be making contact. Hold the switch in the up posistion and bang on the door, it may start working again.

Once you get it moving again get in the habit of never putting the window all the way down or all the way up, you want to leave the window just short of where it would stop at. I haven't replaced a motor in seven years since I started doing this.

Sean

Reply to
Sean Conolly

I have a 85 F250, one failed last year, the other one about 9 mos later, should have done both at the same time. Truck only has about

110K miles.

Doug is correct, the gears can be had at the Ford dealer. If the motor is whirring, chances are it's the nylon gear(s) that have failed. When at the dealer, be sure to get four of the pop rivets (per side).

Not sure if 85 & 88 are identical, but here are the part numbers:

Gear Kit: DOAZ*62234A24*B Rivet 1/4": *385189*S100

Remove the door panel, drill out the pop rivets, support the window before removing last rivet, slide the square nylon bushing out of the window track, remove the motor and linkage. Replace gear parts. When you go to put it all back together, it will be easier if you have three hands to put the motor/linkage back in the door, position it and install new rivets. Wear long sleeves, there's lots of sharp thingys inside the door.

You will need a rivet gun capable of handling 1/4" rivets. These are "industrial" duty rivet guns, I doubt you'll find one at the corner hardware store, I couldn't find one at any of the rental yards either. Luckily, my neighbor has a glass business in his home and loaned me his rivet gun (two handed affair, about 18" long - ~$100). In a pinch you could use 3/16" rivets (steel) which most home duty rivet guns can handle. Use a broad head rivet and a backing washer. You could also use bolt/nut, but there is limited clearance behind a couple of the mounting holes, PITA.

For broad head rivets: Ace Hardware part #2014405 - 3/16" diameter "snowmobile" - grip range 1/4" - 3/8"

David Jones djonesLSidaho.com

Reply to
IdaSpode

With the help of folks in this newsgroup I was able to fix the driver side power window. I was so thankful that I put together a quick and dirty webpage. If your problem is not the worm gear... then...

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...should be able to help.

Good luck.

Greg == remove "rider" to respond directly

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Reply to
Greg

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