1996 ford bronco oil pan

noticed leaking oil form my 1996 ford bronco 302 motor, took it to mechanic to look at it on a lift and was told it was a rotted out oil pan. want to do it myself but looking these groups i see different opinions. i know the fan has to come out and the motor has to be lifted up, but

1.what about clearance issues with the firewall?
  1. does the trans have to be unbolted?
  2. oil pump removed?
4.any other clearance isssues?
  1. what aobut the y exhaust pipe and how hard is it if it has to be removed?
  2. any other things i have to worry about?

Thank you i appreciate any responses

joe

Reply to
Joe
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I've done several of these in '96 F-150's. Believe me, you'll save tons of frustration if you pull the transmission and flywheel. NO, you don't HAVE to, but it will make getting the pan out so much easier. Yes, you'll have to drop the oil pump, that is probably the most challenging part. Not dropping it off, but getting it back on. Yes, you'll have to unbolt the fan shroud, not the fan, and jack the engine up as high as it will go until the transmission is against the floor. Now if you've removed the transmission, the engine lifting part becomes more challenging. IF you have the trans out, you'll have to lift the engine with a cherry picker and engine sling. Also, on the ones I did, I cut the left exhaust pipe over towards the right side and removed it. (I was equipped to weld it back together). If you can't weld the pipe together, you may want to consider removing the entire exhaust pipe assembly. I hope this helps you decide whether to do it yourself or not. It's not the greatest job in the world that's for sure.

If you decide to proceed, (or even if you have someone else to it) take the new pan, have it stripped of paint at the local machine shop's hot tank, then paint it with a good bare metal primer, and a good engine paint. Having the pan warm helps keep the moisture out from under the paint.

Reply to
Steve Barker

i've replaced two pans on 1993 302's ,one on a bronco , the other a

2 wheel drive f150 . Both a PITA. Both rusted out in the same place from the outside due to road debris ( salt / cinders ) chipping the paint then moisture creeping under the paint and then time doing the rusting process. ( front bottom rouned corner ). The bronco leak i noticed while at hunting camp and i put a rubber washered self tapping screw in the hole and then covered the area with rtv silicone which held till i got home..

I'd like to hear from the usual posters your thoughts on having a patch applied ( welded / brazed ) to that area while the pan is still in the vehicle. ?

Reply to
samstone

Several times (in addition to the ones I replaced) I used JB weld to patch pans similar to the one described. The trick is to drain the oil whilst it is hot, let it sit overnight and drain. Then use copious amounts of brake cleaner on the affected area, sand it clean, use more brake cleaner, blow it dry, use more brake cleaner, blow it one more time, then mix up your JB weld. At this point I would then warm the area of the pan with a propane torch, then start smearing the stuff on. The warm pan will make the JB run to some degree, so you have to keep after it to keep it where you want it. Sometimes a second application (layer) would be put on. It DOES work, and is a viable alternative to replacing the pan, provided the leaking area is not right next to the plug or something like that.

Reply to
Steve Barker

Excellent post , thanks Steve , I'll give this method a try the next time. It sounds well worth an attempt considering the time / effort required to replace the pan.

Reply to
samstone

If it's rotted out on the outside, it's rotted out on the inside. Where do you suppose that rust is going?

Reply to
aarcuda69062

IF what you say could happen (which it can't), the answer is, the filter. Oily parts don't rust.

Reply to
Steve Barker

Why can't it?

I've pulled plenty of these pans over the years and found bits of rust laying on the bottom of the pan and inside the oil pick up tube.

Except that the oil pump is ahead of the filter.

If that's so, why is he needing to replace the pan?

Reply to
aarcuda69062

Because it's not oily on the outside where it is rusting.

Reply to
Steve Barker

If it's leaking, it's not just rusty on the outside.

You haven't seen many of these, have you?

Reply to
aarcuda69062

Seen and repaired or replaced about 18 of them. Follow the pictures closely, the rust is on the outside, then it rusts all the way through until it perforates. At this point, rusting at that exact location stops. This is why it usually is just a very slight drip. A pinhole so to speak.

Reply to
Steve Barker

u pull the oil pan off and replace it that is all there is too dumb ass

Reply to
Bryan Naples

On Thu, 01 Mar 2007 13:59:49 -0600, Bryan Naples rearranged some electrons to form:

Hmmm, illiterate and profane. Must be a WebTV subscriber.

Reply to
David M

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