oil pan gasket replacement question

Oct 31, 2006 6 Replies

When doing the oil pan gasket replacement, does the engine need to actually be removed or can it be lifted slightly out of the way? This job looks like a chore. The only miata oil pan that I have removed before was in an engine that was out of the car.



If anyone has done this and has instructions and/or tips, I would be most appreciative.



Thanks!



Pat


I have not done it, but people I trust say you can remove the front subframe (i.e., entire suspension) to gain access...but that yanking the engine is quicker and easier. "Lifting slightly" is not a workable option.

There is no oil pan gasket. The oil pan and baffle are sealed with sealant. I have removed the pan with the engine in situ. If you have the equipment, or the energy and dexterity, it can be done in less time and work than removing the engine. BTW, the subframe is lowered-not removed- with the suspension attached. Exhaust system, cooling system, A/C, P/S are not touched.

Chas Hurst

With the amount of things to remove before you can yank an engine, exhaust, intake, coolant, radiator, electrical hookups, A/C lines, etc., it seems like any possible access to the subframe would be easier and faster, but which is correct?

Can you tell me what is involved in getting the subframe lowered enough to access the oil pan? I know how to remove the engine, but like I said, for someone who doesn't do it regularly, like myself, it takes a long time to get the motor in and out.

Thanks!

Pat

Both are correct. Dropping the sub frame without the use of a lift and transmission jack is a task for young guys that have a lot of energy and dexterity. The sub frame must be lowered about 4 inches, and the engine supported from above. All the fasteners that must be loosened or removed to lower the sub frame are readily accessable by air tools. That's how it was put together in the factory. When I did the deed, I had a lift and trans jack. I fabbed a support, but one could be borrowed from a shop, for the engine. The hardest part was scraping and cleaning the sealant from the bottom of the block. There's really no need to remove the pan except to change the oil pump, or in my case, access the thrust bearings.

Chas

The energy and dexterity are still there, but the youth took off long ago. I think that I will pass on this one and let the pros do it. They have a quote of $400.00. I usually charge about half of what the shop does, and $200.00 doesn't look worth it to me, especially since I do not have a car lift.

If it were my car, I would probably try the subframe. I still have not ever had either of my own miatas in a shop for mechanical repairs of any sort for well over 7 years and I would like to keep it that way unless I get a new MX-5 with warranty.

Tire mounting/balancing, alignments, and a bit of bodywork have been the only reason that either miata has gone in to a shop so far. This is at least three times as long as I have ever gone "shopless" with any other vehicle model.

Thanks again,

Pat

"pws" wrote

Chas sounds like he has a lot of experience with this and offers good advice. All I know is Joey at PBC yanked the engine when he replaced the oil pump on my '97. Your decision to go with the pros is probably good. I'm getting so old a feeble I'm considering having Joey install those KONIs I have sitting in my dining room.

Ken

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