Replacing Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) on 1999 3.0 Ranger =:O

Back pressure has nothing to do with how long the fuel pump runs during key on prime.

What is the fuel pressure and delivery volume?

aarcuda69062 wrote in news:nonelson- snipped-for-privacy@newsclstr02.news.prodigy.com:

DURN... well then I'm thinking FP relay or a short in related wiring...? Could that "false" the PCM into not allowing start up? I think I'll rig up a spare spark plug where I can see it spark while cranking.

Won't have an OBD-II reader until Wed. 4/25...

Don't know. Perhaps I can give it a quick squirt-test with a rag at the Schrader valve?

On my way to buy pressure gauge and borrow gas can. Any tips on what kind of chuck/hose-rig to lead fuel from Schrader valve OUT of engine compartment? It'd be great if the gauge had a T-valve to a barbed hose connector. Stop, that makes too much sense. ;')

"seeker-x" wrote in news:Xns991BAC95DD880seekerx@216.77.188.18:

Well after sitting 18 hrs., Schrader valve let out a fairly nice spurt at "rest" pressure, and with fuel pump doing its "run-on" thing it let out a strong GEYSER. Still, I don't have enough experience to know if it's a

22psi geyser or 44 psi... still going to get gauge, Advanced/Useless Auto was out of them... but the picture on the shelf was nice.

... looks like the gauges DO come with a T-valve and hose after all... me cynic, me bad, lol.

Are you certain? Due to intermittant traffic noise, I can't be 100% certain, but it sounded like it was NOT running at first KOEO, but then WAS running after a session of UNsuccessful cranking with key left on. Will have to characterize this further, timing test runs with nearby traffic light.

(I DID exchange the fuel pump relay with the identical horn relay... horn still blows and fuel pump is still in its run-on world. I'm surprised how much dust is INSIDE that power/relay distro box. The contacts for the large PCM Power relay actually show light film/corrosion. I'm tempted to disconnect the battery and douche the whole thing w/ zero-residue contact cleaner... not sure how to get down in the female sockets...? )

Did this, NO spark. Is PCM withholding ignition because injectors aren't firing/opening? I think my multi-meter can give me the freq. and duty cycle of such a square wave. Any other slick low cost ways to detect injector signals? I doubt it has enough voltage to trigger a timing light.

Ooh, OOH!... should be moved up to tomorrow, 4/24... hopefully clues will shoot out of that data port. ;')

100% And I'd really hate to think that I wasted the last 35 years of my career by not knowing something that basic. There are Ford products that utilize a fuel pressure sensor, your Ranger is not one of them though.

The fuel pump relay is energized by the PCM for a couple of seconds when the key is first turned on, then the PCM needs to see an RPM signal from the crankshaft position sensor before it will re-energize the fuel pump relay in anticipation of an engine start.

Zeroing in on the root cause...

Bass-ackwards. The injectors don't have any authority over -any- PCM function or command.

Injector signal? Easy, common garden variety 12 volt automotive test light.

On Apr 23, 11:04 pm, "seeker-x" wrote: ...

So you have Fuel.

...

...

So what you want to do is trouble shoot for no spark.

Are you certain the fuel pump is running the entire time key is on?

aarcuda69062 wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@newsclstr02.news.prodigy.com:

...

... It is, however, thee most oddball hybrid Ranger ever seen by auto parts databases in 2 states. From the drive belt to the fuel filter to the speed sensor in the rear diff, my bone-stock mass-produced puppy truck eludes them all. Lends a certain Lamborghini air to the proceedings... LOL! ...

Yeah... 2 RKIs have now mentioned a bad Crank Pos. Sensor as a suspect... that will generate a code, yes/no? Can the CPS sometimes just need a cleaning? (Parked just 5 ft. from property line, I never know where the neighbor's illegal immigrant lawn guys are aiming the leaf blowers... =:O )

Makes sense... while you wouldn't want to inject a cylinder that has no spark, what's the harm in sparking a dry cylinder?

Mechanically/practically speaking, how would you jumper that in? I'm thinking the ON portion of duty cycle is pretty short, and would only light a bulb very dimly, perhaps not even visible in daylight... ????

Thanks much for all the feedback. Off to get more diagnostic tools.

Mike H wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@t38g2000prd.googlegroups.com:

Mike, did you edit your header data? 2 very different news readers (Google on web browser, and Xnews) both have your post all by its lonesome in its own thread...? I just happened to see it down here...

So it seems! I'd hate to have to do that whole drop-the-tank and replace the OVERPRICED fuel pump and pay to dispose of dirty fuel shinola...

OK, I admit I used a passing homeless guy to check for spark (I make 'em WORK for their handout!)... didn't want him sitting on my upholstery, doing the cranking, LOL! Rejoin main thread... looks like I *DO* have spark!

Yep, unless there's something else near the rear fender wells that makes a low whizzing sound. Has the sub-tropical humidity caused fatal amounts of condensation to accumulate in fuel tank? That I don't know. Probably not.

"seeker-x" wrote in news:Xns991C8F3ED869Bseekerx@216.77.188.18:

Got the OBD-II reader, and NO CODES except my old P0141 "EGR; insufficient flow". Gee, that's helpful. It also said not all available tests could be completed, but didn't say WHICH tests, nor WHY. Smells like PCM trouble.

I then disco'd and reco'd the negative batt cable. Didn't do squat except erase my radio station presets.

THEN... !!!!!!!!! As we all know, the foot stays OFF the gas pedal when starting a 'puter- controlled fuel-injected vehicle. On the advice of a Ford "insider", I cranked her while "giving it gas" and she fired right up!... then smoothly died off after 2 seconds. Couple minutes later I gave it a LOT of gas and the tacho revved up over 4,000 RPM!... so I think my crank pos. sensor is working.

After these 2 little roars of life, the tailpipe smelled of raw fuel, i.e. flooded, i.e. not enough air.

"Insider" says this makes the Idle Air Controller (IAC) solenoid the prime suspect. I was chased off by a downpour before I could re-pop hood and "smack" the IAC, or download new codes. I'm going back over. Understand the mechanism may need a dousing with carb cleaner.

Otherwise useless Haynes manual gives some resistance values and easy way to check for signal to IAC, so I'll do that.

IAC fault still doesn't explain fuel pump run-on, and lack of OBD-II codes... GRRrrr.

Note to self: Buy detailed (pirated?) tech service manuals on CD from Ebay.

You may check a Chiltons manual out as well, I've got one for your generation Ranger and am very happy with it, definatly beats the Haynes. Available at booksellers everywhere, and auto parts stores almost nowhere. I'd bet the Ford tech. manuals would rock, however.

" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@s33g2000prh.googlegroups.com:

Noted, thanks... need to get re-motivated this week. 2nd vehicle reduces my urgency, but that's shortsighted on my part... and summer heat is comin'. People say I'm lucky it's (apparently) not the PCM, but I'm like why, that's an EASY swap-out, and they can be had